80 MARINE INGREDIENTS
energy demands. Multi-step purification, while allowing for concentration of specific active families, is often lengthy and generates significant waste. In contrast, the Coeur d’Algue eco-process
represents a shift in algal extraction, prioritizing efficiency, concentration, and sustainability. This patented process has been optimized to a minimum of steps, significantly reducing energy consumption and waste generation. Unlike conventional approaches that might
involve four or more steps including maceration, filtration, concentration, polysaccharide elimination, chlorophyll/triglyceride elimination (often with active carbon), and liquid support addition, our eco-designed process streamlines this into essentially two key phases: targeted extraction and liquid support. By carefully choosing the right solvent
from the outset, the need for intermediary purification steps, such as polysaccharide removal, is eliminated. This innovation allows for the direct concentration of the desired glycolipids. The result is an extract that is not only highly concentrated—up to seven times more concentrated in active substances than conventional oily extracts—but also produced with a significantly reduced environmental footprint. This Coeur d’Algue technology is currently unique in the cosmetic market for its ability to efficiently extract marine glycolipids, delivering unparalleled functional efficacy.
Demonstration of the resulting Himanthalia elongata extract’s anti-sagging efficacy Himanthalia elongata extract, produced via the patented Coeur d’Algue eco-designed process, is specifically quantified in glycolipids, serving as a biomarker and a contributor to the efficacy through the SQDG fraction it contains. This extract presents a +166% of collagen
IV expression after measurement by immunofluorescence compared to pure SQDG. It implies that the precise phytochemical signature of the Himanthalia elongata extract obtained, thanks to Coeur d’Algue, contributes to its efficacy. Moreover, this extract targets three key skin
D0
Figure 5: Himanthalia elongata extract clinical results on the skin firmness
zones: the dermo-epidermal junction, where it significantly boosts collagen synthesis (Collagen XVII by 12% and Collagen IV by 107%), and the dermis, enhancing Integrin ß1 and α-Smooth Muscle actin synthesis, alongside increasing fibroblast traction forces (Young’s modulus by 117%). Furthermore, it strengthens the dermo- hypodermal junction by increasing its Young’s modulus by 69% and boosting Procollagen I synthesis by 42% in co-cultures. Its efficacy has been clinically validated for
its anti-sagging properties. An in vivo study was conducted on 63 Caucasian women aged 50 to 65, all presenting visible nasolabial folds. The study was randomized and double-blinded, with participants applying a formula containing 2% Himanthalia elongata extract or a placebo twice daily on their entire face for 28 days. Skin firmness was evaluated using Dynaskin, a non-
D28
contact method measuring skin deformation, while nasolabial fold area was assessed by Fringe projection. The results demonstrated significant
improvements in skin firmness. After 28 days, the skin treated with the Himanthalia elongata extract was eight times firmer than with the placebo. This was evidenced by a substantial reduction in skin area deformation induced by Dynaskin, with a mean decrease of −13.5 mm2
compared to a +1.8 mm2 increase with the
placebo (Figure 5). The visibility of nasolabial folds decreased
by an average of 7.1% compared to the placebo, leading to a visibly smoother and more lifted appearance (Figure 6). This comprehensive action across all skin
layers underscores the Himanthalia elongata extract’s unique phytochemical signature and its powerful efficacy in reinforcing overall mechanical properties to effectively combat skin sagging.
Conclusion Algae’s vast biodiversity offers immense potential for cosmetic innovation. Understanding specific species and implementing responsible sourcing are essential, often bolstered by advanced biomass production technologies that ensure consistent quality, scalability and environmental sustainability. The efficacy of algal ingredients further
Figure 6: Himanthalia elongata extract clinical results on the nasogenian folds PERSONAL CARE October 2025
hinges on sophisticated extraction technologies, such as Coeur d’Algue, which isolates potent compounds like glycolipids from Himanthalia elongata for enhanced anti-sagging benefits. This integrated approach, from discovery and controlled cultivation to optimized processing, is key to developing high-performance, sustainably sourced cosmetic solutions for the future.
PC
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