TOTAL LICENSING
Opinion
Getting ready for an
Will the end of the
economic downturn
ethical upturn
bring with it a
new, more ethical
Licensing Expo 09 is more than just What’s in it for manufacturers,
attitude to shopping
a place to network, meet clients and, retailers and the whole licensing
from consumers?
as the show’s website puts it, ‘discover value chain? Less packaging is fine
tomorrow’s hottest consumer prod- but why in general should we need
ucts’. It also offers a comprehensive to appeal to so-called ethical shop-
As Caroline Mickler
conference programme covering ev- pers?
points out, for the
erything from selling to teens and viral Well, firstly there is some evidence
licensing industry
marketing to royalty rates and legal that such shoppers are already
that apparently
perspectives. seen as a worthwhile target mar-
simple question
While looking through that pro- ket. For example, even in our pres-
gramme, I glanced at the theme of ent tough times some consumers,
masks a complex
this year’s keynote address. With ad- especially of children’s goods, seem
set of issues
mirable optimism it looks beyond to- to like the idea of paying for what
affecting not only
day’s recession to the post-slump con- they regard as ethical clothing —
licensing, but
sumer scene and asks the following hence the success of Green-Eyed
manufacturing,
questions: As the economy rebounds, Monster, a licensee for a brand
will conspicuous consumption return? that I represent, which produces
retail and
Or is a conscientious, environmentally colourful children’s Beatles-brand-
marketing.
and socially conscious shopping men- ed t-shirts that boast organic and
tality more likely to emerge? fair trade credentials.
One could argue that this new shop- Such companies are benefiting
scientious, environmentally and social-
ping mentality was developing before not just from growing awareness but
ly conscious shopping. However, is all
the near-collapse of the banking sec- also from technology: shoppers can
this enough? Realistically, of course, in
tor. In fact a few people might feel now find them on the internet rather
a global market experiencing a slump,
that such a mentality is evident now, than having to rely on phone books
most consumers will spend their mon-
despite the downturn. And that makes or word of mouth. So we also need
ey where it will go furthest. And even
me wonder whether the questions to ask what role technology will play
if an ethical mentality is strengthened
asked in this summary of the Licens- in not only spreading the word about
in an upturn, will most consumers still
ing Expo conference keynote address ethical shopping but making it worth
base their decisions on the price tag?
actually beg many more. our while to sell to such consumers?
Or will enough of them be selective
For example, what do we mean by Segmentation – precise targeting and
enough in their purchases to make
‘conscientious, environmentally and reach of exactly the demographic
it at the very least a profitable niche
socially conscious’? Is it shoppers that you are looking for – is likely to be-
market for the licensing industry?
care about over-packaging, recycling come easier for us as people’s online
Clearly this is a much more complex
and carbon footprints? Or those who habits flag up their preferences. Will
issue than merely saying “when things
prefer organic materials? Or those that encourage our industry to make
improve we will all be more ethical”,
who demand cruelty-free, fair-trade product designed to appeal to ethical
and I suspect the Licensing Expo key-
items? shoppers?
note will reflect that fact.
And even if we accept these defini- There’s also ‘the image thing’. Envi-
At the very least, however, I’m cer-
tions why should such a mentality ronmental and social awareness is no
tain that all these trends should not
only be associated with an economic longer solely associated with hippies
be ignored. After all, one day we may
rebound? The implication is that eth- or anarchists. Today, politicians and ce-
indeed face the challenge of develop-
ics are a luxury but, as I have already lebrities are assuring us of their ethi-
ing and marketing product lines that
pointed out in these pages, cutting cal credentials and ethical topics are
tick environmental, organic or fair-
back on packaging is a positive envi- mass media staples. Social awareness
trade boxes – or all three – because
ronmental gesture that consumers is cool. Will these trends boost what is
a burgeoning ethical consumer base
approve of and that can benefit both at present a fairly small market?
with significant disposable income de-
manufacturers and retailers, cutting So awareness is growing, targeting is
mands it. Still, let’s face it, given present
costs and freeing up shelf space. easier and a fair amount of consumer
circumstances, it would certainly be a
And that brings us to another point. spending, even now, is going into con-
nice challenge to have.
150
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