98 FORMULATIONS
B Citric acid solution 30%
Aqua, Citric acid
9.00
Procedure: Disperse powders one at a time using a turbo emulsifier. Take final pH between 5,5 - 6,5. The value will tend to increase over time and stabilize in the range 5,0 – 6,0. Properties: Viscosity: 20000 – 23000 cPs: RV-06: 10 rpm: 1 min @25°C
SENSIENT BEAUTY LIP & CHEEK NATURAL STICK
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Miglyol 812N Castor oil
Candeilla Wax Kahlwax 2811 rice B Castor Oil
Natpure Colfine Rose p320
B' Catsor Oil INCI NAME
Capryli/Capric Triglycerides Castor ricinus comunis oil
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Oryza Sativa Bran (rice) Cera Castor ricinus comunis oil
Anthocyanins (and) Citric acid (and) Bentonite
Ricinus comunis (Castor) oil
C Covapearl Pink 433 Mica (and) CI77891 D Vitamine Eacetate
Tocopherylacetate
VANDERBILT JOJOBA OIL & SHEA BUTTER MOISTURIZING CREAM
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A VEEGUM® R Water
SCT 2500 SPLR % W/W
3 31.00 1
2 3.00 1
1 1
1
15.00 15.00 13.00
4.80 0.20
Procedure: Heat phase A at 90°C and stir for 10 min at 200rpm. Grind Natpure Col Fine Rose P320 Into castor oil using three rolls mills. Add B' to phase B. Decrease temperature of phase A around 70-75°C. Add phase C in A at 70-75°C and stir at 400rpm for 10 min. Add (B+B') in (A+C). Add phase D and stir 10 min at 70°C.
Suppliers: 1. Sensient Beauty 2. Ingretech 3. loi Chemicals
10.00 8.00
B ProtachemTM ProtachemTM Pationic® SSL TomasaTM
INCI NAME
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Water
Glycerin, USP grade Glycerin
GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate CS-50 Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Jojoba Oil GoldenTM OleaclearTM
Olive Squalane
Neobee® M-5 Cosmetic
Covi-ox® T-50 C C Preservative Olive Squalane 1
666
SPLR % W/W 2.00
80.50 2.00
2 2.00 2 2.00 3
1.00 4 2.00
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5 4.00 4 2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Tocopherol
6 2.00 7 0.50
q.s. SOPHIM
MR. TIMID BLUSH & LIPS STICK 6ML PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME
A Sunflower Oil OR VIR Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Phytosqualan Castor Oil OR
Squalane Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Jojoba Butter Carnauba wax
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Copernicia Cerifa Cera
Phytowax 18L57 OR Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters Candellila wax Plum oil OR VIR
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Apricot Kernel oil OR VIR
SkinFeel TOCO 70 NON-GMO
B Pigment Pigment C FEMA Thé d’Azur, from PARFEX Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Ricinus communis seed oil (and) CI45410
Ricinus Commhnis Seed Oil (and) CI 77491 (and) CI 77492 (and) CI 77499 (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Fragrance
SPLR % W/W 28.5 10 10
1 1 1
1 1
1
1 1
10 9
8 8 5
5 1 0.25 5 1 0.25
Procedure: Weigh all the solid, pasty and liquid fats from the A batch into a suitable beaker. Heat the beaker in a water bath to 90°C, which is equivalent to 80-85°C in the beaker. Once the entire phase has become liquid, start stirring at a suitable speed to avoid incorporating air into the medium. Make sure all fats are melted and well dispersed. Add the two pigment dispersions from phase B under stirring at 80°C, taking care not to aerate the bulk. Check under the microscope that the pigments are well dispersed. Remove from water bath. Add perfume at around 70°C. Homogenize the bulk well before stopping stirring. Allow the bulk to cool to the core of the beaker to obtain a homogeneous crystal lattice. Depending on the quantity, cooling may take up to 24 hours. The bulk may be placed in cold storage at 10°C for one week before casting the sticks. Reheat just enough to 80°C to pour into sticks. Do not "overheat" the bulk (temperature and duration)to avoid damaging the perfume concentrate and oxidizing the bulk.
Suppliers: 1. Sophim
Procedure: Slowly add the VEEGUM® R to the water while mixing at maximum available shear. Mix as the water temperature is raised to 80°C, until fully hydrated. Add the glycerin and maintain the Phase A temperature at 80°C. Combine Phase B ingredients and heat to 80°C with stirring. Add Phase B to Phase A with adequate mixing. Cool to 35°C while mixing and add Phase C. Continue to cool with mixing and pour off at 30°C.
Suppliers: 1. Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC 2. Protameen Chemicals, Inc. 3. Rita Corporation 4. Tri-K Industries, Inc. 5. Essential Ingredients 6. Stepan Company 7. Kensing, LLC
VANTAGE PRO-COLLAGEN EYE & LIP CONTOUR
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Deionized Water Aloe Vera Juice
JEESPERSE® ICE-T™ LB-TNS
B Jeechem® NDA—LC
DW Jojoba Colorless Organic
Prickly Pear Oil C Euxyl K712 D Adaptogen INCI NAME
Aqua (Water) Aloe Vera Juice
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycol Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C9-12 Alkane Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil
VPC.05.23.044 SPLR % W/W
1 1
65.00 15.00
2 4.00 2 5.00
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 2 5.00 2 0.50 3
Potassium Sorbate (and) Sodium Benzoate
FermBiotic™ S.
Aqua (Water) (and) Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate (and) Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (and) Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract (and) Tremella Fuciformis Extract
E BioSignal™ Lipid 10 Glycerin (and) Phospholipids F Granpowder BBP-700 Saccharomyces Ferment (and)
Lauroyl Lysine 1.00 2 1.00
2 1.00 4 2.50
Procedure: In the main vessel, add phase A ingredients and mix until uniform. Add phase B ingredients one at a time and mix until uniform. Add phase C and mix until uniform. Add phase D and mix until uniform. Add phase E and mix until uniform. Add phase F and mix until uniform. Adjust pH to 5.5 max. Properties: pH: 5.5 Stability: Stable for 12 weeks (25°C; 4°C; 45°C; light)
Suppliers: 1. Local 2. Vantage 3. Schuëlke 4. Grant
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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