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10 NEWS


Mintel tips marine glycoproteins to trend


Mintel has tipped the use of sustainable marine ingredients like glycoproteins to trend in the beauty and personal care industry in 2025.


The market researcher’s Global


Beauty and Personal Care Trends for 2025 report identifies three key trends for next year: ‘Turning the Tide’; ‘(My) Knowledge is Power’; and ‘Think Slow, Move Fast’. Turning the Tide is about


brands being expected to consider the implications of consumers demanding a seamless connection between ethical practices and high-performance beauty solutions amid the effects of climate change becoming more evident. “Brands will explore solutions


rooted in the soil, leveraging regenerative farming and sustainable fishing practices. Innovative ingredients like glycoproteins derived from lobsters will become more common, offering high-performance benefits while supporting marine conservation,” said Mintel. “As precision fermentation


and vertical farming become mainstream, beauty brands will adopt these technologies to produce bio-synthetic ingredients with minimal environmental impact,” it added.


“Future beauty products will be designed to adapt to environmental and physiological changes in real-time. Imagine skincare that adjusts to varying climate conditions or deodorants that release odour-neutralising molecules based on body temperature. These climate- adaptive products will offer highly personalised experiences, blending technology with nature.” Meanwhile, (My) Knowledge is


Power is about consumers working smarter - not harder – on their beauty routines using repurposed products or technology. “In 2025, consumers will


no longer work hard on their beauty routines but rather work smarter, repurposing products like self-tanners as bronzers or using Vaseline for skin ‘slugging’, maximising their effectiveness with minimal effort. “Expect a surge in devices that offer on-the-spot analysis and


results, empowering users to make informed decisions instantly. As Gen Alphas (born 2010-25) reach adulthood, their comfort with AI and virtual experiences will transform the beauty industry. “AR glasses will become


integral to daily routines, offering real-time guidance for makeup application. Meanwhile, beauty brands will begin to market products as health-focused, addressing concerns from parents and institutions over younger generations’ beauty obsessions.” The third trend, Think Slow,


Move Fast, is about emphasising prevention over repair and embracing simplicity, consumers will start their ‘routines’ sooner in life, integrating nostalgic and sensory-rich experiences in pursuit of personalised skincare. “In 2025, beauty will


increasingly emphasise comfort and emotional well-being, much like the comfort food movement. Ingredients, textures and products will evoke simpler times, focusing on sensorial experiences that soothe and nourish. “Brands will also need to adapt


to the growing trend of slow living by aligning their innovation cycles with more sustainable and mindful consumption patterns.


DSM-Firmenich seeks FDA sunscreen nod


DSM-Firmenich has filed paperwork with the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) seeking approval for its sunscreen active ingredient, Parsol Shield. The Swiss-Dutch company has


submitted an Over-the-Counter Monograph Order Request (OMOR) Tier 1 application for the ingredient known under the USAN name Bemotrizinol. The long-awaited move marks


the start of the FDA’s 17.5-month review process to determine whether Bemotrizinol will be classified as Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective (GRASE) for inclusion in the US OTC sunscreen monograph. If approved, Bemotrizinol would become the first new sunscreen


PERSONAL CARE November 2024


active ingredient added to the US OTC sunscreen monograph since 1999. In turn, that would allow


Bemotrizinol to be used in sunscreen formulations without the need for additional pre-market approval. Bemotrizinol, approved in most


regions worldwide and in use since 2000, is the first sunscreen active ingredient to undergo review under the FDA’s updated safety and efficacy standards.


“This OMOR submission


marks a monumental step in our commitment to driving innovation in sun care, consumer health, and sustainability,” said DSM-Firmenich President of Beauty & Care Parand Salmassinia.


“Parsol Shield has been safely


used worldwide for over 20 years, and we are proud to lead the introduction of this proven technology to US consumers. If approved, it will elevate the standard of sun protection and play a vital role in public health and skin cancer prevention,” she added.


L’Oréal, Evonik


invest in Abolis L’Oréal and Evonik have participated in a €35m ($39m) funding round in Abolis Biotechnologies, a French startup based in Genopole. The funding will enable Abolis


to scale its biomanufacturing operations, accelerate business development efforts, develop its own line of products and expand the activities of Microbiome Studio, its business unit dedicated to deciphering and engineering microbial ecosystems. The investment is accompanied


by the signing of a new strategic industrial partnership between Abolis, L’Oréal and Evonik to bring selected innovations to market for the cosmetic, healthcare and chemical sectors. L’Oréal said the agreement


will enable purpose-made, sustainable ingredients to be produced at the scale needed to satisfy global demand for responsible beauty and accelerate L’Oréal for the Future sustainability commitments that prioritize bio- based ingredients in its beauty formulations. “We are proud to invest


in Abolis and expand our collaboration, working together as a tight ecosystem alongside our historical partner, Evonik,” said Barbara Lavernos, deputy chief executive officer in charge of research, innovation and technology at L’Oréal. “By mobilizing our respective


companies’ research, innovation and manufacturing capabilities and expertise, we are building an end- to-end value chain that we believe has tremendous potential to be a game-changer in bio-based ingredients for beauty,” she added. Other investors in the


funding round were DeepTech & Climate Fonds (Germany), Clay Capital (Singapore), Icos Capital (Netherlands), and the transatlantic investment firm Liberset. Evonik said biotech as a lever


for sustainable transformation is a key component of its growth strategy.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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