50 COLOUR COSMETICS
Esters for high performance cosmetics
Alba Garcia, Paola Pérez, Elena Cañadas, Cristina Amezcua Fontrodona, Marine Vincendet, Raquel Delgado - Lubrizol
Bold aesthetics, skin-led sweat-proof formulas, and inclusive colour cosmetics are set to be the driving forces behind makeup trends in 2027. As consumers increasingly seek makeup that empowers them and boosts their confidence, it becomes crucial for the industry to consistently deliver alluring textures and innovative benefits. However, Lubrizol acknowledges that end
consumers often encounter challenges with their makeup products. Compact makeup powders may lack breakage resistance, lipsticks can be too hard or too soft with insufficient payoff, and foundations may fail to provide sweat and transfer resistance. With this understanding, Lubrizol Life
Science aims to assist makeup formulators in meeting consumer expectations by showcasing the key properties of selected Schercemol™ esters within their extensive portfolio as the ultimate emollient solutions for high- performance colour cosmetics.
Pressed powders The performance of carefully chosen light and medium esters was evaluated as wet binders in pressed powder applications when including them at 10% (Table 1). Several factors such as resistance to fall, breakage resistance, powder pickup, and appearance were assessed. The performance of the selected ester
was assessed by comparing it to a market benchmark (Benchmark 1), also included at 10%.
Resistance to fall To assess the ability of the selected light and medium esters to preserve the integrity and structure of pressed powders, a drop test
Phase Ingredients / INCI
A Talc, Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate Mica, Titanium Dioxide Boron Nitride
Emollient tested Microcrystalline Cellulose
Titanium Dioxide, Triethoxycaprylysilane Mica, Iron Oxide Phenoxyethanol Tocopheryl Acetate
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
was conducted. This test involved evaluating the number of drops it took for the pressed powder to completely break when dropped from a height of 46 cm. The results (Figure 1) revealed that the
selected esters (powder breaks pass the four drops) demonstrated greater performance in maintaining the integrity of the pressed powder when dropped compared to Benchmark 1 (powder breaks before four drops).
Breakage resistance The evaluation also included measuring the hardness through penetration tests to determine the stability the samples will have to break, crumble or dust during transport. The Texture Analyser was utilized to apply the necessary force to penetrate the samples using
TABLE 1: TESTED FORMULA FOR PRESSED POWDER WITH 10% TESTED EMOLLIENT
w/w (%) 41..80 28.90 10.00 10.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 0.20 0.10
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 NGDO LL CO 1818 CATC CN 105 1688 Benchmark 1
Figure 1: Number of drops it takes the pressed powder to totally break, when drop from 46 cm high, using various ester at 10%, as wet binder. Average of three replicates
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a 2 mm cylindrical probe. The force required to penetrate the samples was determined, and any flaking or dusting was checked. The outcome showed that the selected esters
demonstrated greater resistance to penetration compared to the benchmark (Figure 2). They exhibited enough hardness to prevent crumbling and dusting, as opposed to Benchmark 1, which broke under forces below 1000g.
Powder pickup In order to determine if the selected esters achieved a balanced powder loading in pressed powder formulas, the amount of powder delivered by a makeup brush was measured. This was done by passing the brush through a compact powder 50 times. It was found that the amount of powder
DROP TEST
No
drops*
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