ANTI-AGEING
Cyclic peptide: natural alternative to retinol
Amandine Werle and Julie Droux - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
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Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, has long been revered as a cornerstone ingredient in skin care formulations for its remarkable ability to address various signs of ageing and improve overall skin health. Its efficacy in reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation has made it a popular choice among consumers seeking to reduce the effects of ageing and maintain youthful skin. In recent years, the market for retinol-based skin care products has witnessed significant growth, reflecting the widespread adoption of this potent ingredient. According to market research data, the
global retinol skin care market was valued at $22 million in 2021 and is expected to reach $36.4 million in 2031.1
These figures underscore
the substantial demand for retinol-based formulations and its prominence in the skin care industry. However, despite its undeniable benefits,
the use of retinol is not without its drawbacks. Its use is often associated with side effects such as skin irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity to sunlight, which can deter some individuals from incorporating it into their skin care routine. Recent studies indicate that around 71% of the population experience some form of skin sensitivity,2
an increase of 55% in just 20 years,3
and this represents further
highlighting the importance of products that respect the skin’s delicate balance. In response to these concerns and the
growing consumer demand for natural and sustainable skin care alternatives, there has been a notable shift towards the development
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of natural alternatives to retinol. These alternatives aim to harness the power of botanical ingredients to deliver similar benefits to retinol without the associated side effects.
Searching for the new best natural alternative to retinol Acknowledging the needs of consumers for efficient yet mild and natural well-ageing solutions, and the challenges faced by formulators in accessing responsibly sourced alternatives to retinol with similar effect to integrate to their day care solutions, Clariant decided to develop a novel solution tailored to meet the evolving needs of the market. A thorough analysis of potential natural
alternatives was conducted, taking into account their capacity to improve the skin structure in order to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and their ability to be non-irritating and mild for the skin. Guided by recent trends in cosmetics,
Clariant’s scientific team turned its attention to the promising realm of natural peptides. Amidst this exploration, the advantages of cyclic peptides over their linear counterparts emerged as a focal point of interest. Cyclic peptides, with their unique ring
structure formed by peptide bonds, offer several key advantages. One major benefit lies in their enhanced stability. The closed cyclic conformation of cyclic peptides makes them more resistant to degradation by enzymes. This increased stability can significantly prolong their
bioavailability and half-life. Another important advantage of cyclic
peptides is their high ability to penetrate cell membranes. Their constrained cyclic structure facilitates passive diffusion across these barriers. Beyond stability and permeability, the three-dimensional cyclic architecture of these molecules also confers great selectivity for binding to target receptors on cells. Their unique structural conformations enable very tight and more specific interactions. This selectivity can translate to improved efficacy and reduced off- target effects. Drawing upon extensive literature reviews,
Clariant identified heterophyllin B, a cyclic peptide exclusively found within the roots of Pseudostellaria heterophylla, also called Prince ginseng, as a compelling candidate for skin care enhancement. The molecule exhibited notable potential in stimulating collagen synthesis, positioning it as a viable alternative to retinol. To produce its Pseudostellaria heterophylla
extract (PHE), Clariant sources Prince ginseng extracts in China, where the plant is cultivated through a reasoned approach, without using pesticides nor fertilizers, and ensures full traceability of the ingredient.
Potentiating retinol naturally present in the cells PHE was rigorously tested to assess its efficacy. Tests were conducted on the retinoid pathway, a biological process that converts retinol naturally present in the cells into retinoic acid, its active form that enters the nucleus to fix on
November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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