72 ANTI-AGEING The first one was done on 22 women (45-65
years-old) showing wrinkles and reduced skin firmness, to highlight PHE’s proper efficacy. Objective measurements of skin firmness using cutometry showed PHE significantly increased firmness by 12.6% after 28 days and 19% after 56 days, corresponding to a six times improvement compared to the placebo. On sagging, visual grading of standardized
photographs demonstrated PHE reduced sagging by 10.7% at day 28, outperforming the placebo fivefold. To complete this study, we conducted a
second one to compare the activity of the new active with bakuchiol, the current main natural alternative of retinol on the market. Twelve women from 45 to 64 years old and showing wrinkles, loss of skin firmness and dull complexion were enrolled. They applied a formula with 0.3% PHE or
0.5% bakuchiol, twice a day, on the half face. After 28 days, bakuchiol and PHE demonstrated similar efficacy on skin firmness (+8.8% versus +7.9% respectively, with no significant difference between them) and on skin radiance (+3.5% for bakuchiol versus +4.3% for the active, difference being non-significant). While both PHE and bakuchiol
demonstrated anti-sagging capabilities, we observed that the new active ingredient outperforms bakuchiol, the decrease in skin sagging reaching -12.8% with the active while it was -8.9% with bakuchiol, the difference being significant. The improvement in skin sagging is visible (Figure 3). This clinical study proves that the new
natural alternative to retinol shows a similar efficacy to bakuchiol on firmness and luminosity even when used at almost half the dose than bakuchiol, and is even stronger to reduce sagging. Therefore, PHE can be positioned as the next best natural alternative to retinol on the market. The third clinical study was done to compare
the efficacy of PHE with retinol. During 28 days, women between 45 and 65 years old with wrinkles tested on the half face either a formula with 1% PHE or 0.3% retinol, twice per day. The results showed that the active redensifies the dermis stronger than what can be achieved with retinol (+38.6% versus +1.6%). In addition, the new active is faster than
retinol to reduce wrinkles as after only 14 days, wrinkles are significantly reduced by 5.1% with PHE and by only 0.4% with retinol. After 28 days, results are similar to retinol, demonstrating the active can help provide a youthful appearance.
Addressing formulation challenges In addition to its efficacy, PHE presents several benefits for formulators who develop new generation skin cares for well-ageing. Indeed, retinol is known to present significant formulation hurdles that cosmetic chemists must overcome. Retinol is notoriously unstable, degrading rapidly when exposed to light, air, and heat. PHE offers a solution to these formulation challenges as its stable nature offers a long shelf life of three years, while delivering potent well-ageing benefits.
PERSONAL CARE November 2024 Day 0
Day 28
Figure 3: visible improvement of skin sagging with PHE Unlike retinol, PHE is a water-soluble,
liquid extract. This unique form ensures it can be easily incorporated into aqueous formulations without complex encapsulation or delivery systems required for stabilizing retinol. Manufacturers can simply add PHE during the water phase, streamlining the formulation process. Being registered with Beijing-based
National Medical Products Administration, as the plant is sourced directly in China and has a traditional use there, it can be used worldwide. Last but not least, it is suitable for use in daytime formulas, enhancing its versatility and appeal to consumers. All these features allow the creation of high-performance, yet consumer-friendly well-ageing products without the formulation complexities of traditional retinoids.
Conclusion Exploring the world of natural cyclic peptides can lead to the development of powerful active ingredients, that represent efficient alternative to synthetic molecules. The proof is CycloRetin™, a Pseudostellaria heterophylla extract, that represents a significant advancement in the field of skin care innovation. Its potent efficacy, coupled with its natural profile, positions it as a promising
alternative to retinol. Through rigorous testing and
comprehensive analysis, CycloRetin has demonstrated its ability to deliver comparable, if not superior, results to retinol while addressing key formulation challenges and minimizing potential side effects. As consumer demand for natural and effective skin care solutions continues to rise, this new natural alternative to retinol emerges as a frontrunner in meeting these evolving needs and shaping the future of the skin care industry.
PC
References 1. Business Research Insights. Cosmetic Retinol Market Size. Jan 2024. https://www.
businessresearchinsights.com/market-reports/ cosmetic-retinol-market-100920
2. Chen W, Dai R, Li L. The prevalence of self- declared sensitive skin: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2020; Aug;34(8):1779-1788
3. Farage MA. The prevalence of sensitive skin. Front. Med. (Lausanne). 2019;6:98
4. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, Notay M, Trivedi M, Burney W, Vaughn AR, Nguyen M, Reiter P, Bosanac S et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br. J. Dermatol. 2019, 180, 289–296
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