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84 SKIN BRIGHTENING


polar lipids in aqueous solvents, have gained popularity in various industries as carriers for water and oil-soluble substances. The advantages of liposomes include their


ability to incorporate active compounds to improve the stability and bioavailability of the entrapped molecules. This allows for a controlled release and site targeting. They are known to be safe, can be produced at lower costs, and are easy to scale-up.14 Due to their incredible versatility,


biodegradability, biocompatibility, and targeting, lipid-based nanoparticles have been used for several administration routes. Their small size also ensures close contact with the stratum corneum, facilitating skin penetration of the drug. Studies have shown that ellagic acid


encapsulated in liposomes results in a more effective and sustained acid release. The widespread application of liposomes has been seen in the biomedical, food, and agricultural sectors, where they serve as carrier systems for both water and oil-soluble molecules.1


These molecules encompass a


range of substances, including antimicrobials, flavours, antioxidants, and bioactive agents. In recent studies1


, nanoliposomes have


also been explored as carriers for ellagic acid to safeguard it from degradation and enhance its anti-oxidant properties. Encapsulation of ellagic acid within nanoliposomes exhibited superior efficacy in preventing in vitro lipid peroxidation compared to free ellagic acid. In vivo experiments further demonstrated


that free ellagic acid and encapsulated ellagic acid successfully mitigated damage (in this case, the tests were performed on rats) induced by the alkylating agent cyclophosphamide.


Liposomal ellagic acid and its effect on skin The innovative approach of encapsulating EA in liposomes and niosomes enhances the benefits of liposomal ellagic acid, which is already known for its formidable anti-oxidant properties. In fact, in a global cosmetics market5


expected to exceed $800 billion by 2023, Liposomal ellagic acid is a promising ingredient thanks to its anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing properties. When blended into creamy, easily absorbed textures, it is a powerful, turbo- charged antioxidant.6 While liposomal EA benefits skin cancer


treatment significantly, its potential extends beyond that. It protects against oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and natural ageing. A recent Korean study has revealed that when applied to sun-damaged skin, ellagic acid reduces inflammation, possibly suppressing the effects of intercellular adhesion molecule (ICAM) involved in the inflammatory response. Liposomal ellagic acid also hampers matrix


metalloproteinase (MMP), an enzyme signalling collagen breakdown. These properties support skin elasticity, potentially reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, ellagic acid is an effective


PERSONAL CARE November 2024


skin brightener without affecting the DNA of melanocytes, ensuring a safer alternative to ingredients like Hydroquinone. It is an excellent ally in brightening the skin and addressing pigmentation issues. The skin-whitening impact of liposomal ellagic acid is likely due to the inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and the synthesis of melanin by tyrosinase in melanocytes, all without causing harm to the cells. Consequently, ellagic acid emerges as a potentially effective skin-whitening agent with minimal undesirable side effects. A study of six weeks on brownish guinea


pigs irradiated for two weeks with UV light demonstrated that 1% of ellagic acid has greater efficacy in suppressing pigmentation than kojic acid and arbutin. The study also revealed that ellagic acid, a


skin-whitening agent, is a better substitute than Hydroquinone, which may be toxic and irritating to melanocytes.13


According to experts, ellagic


acid might also disrupt enzymes responsible for collagen damage, leading to diminished wrinkles and enhanced pigment.7


Potential in improving skin health Wrinkle reduction Much like other anti-oxidants, ellagic acid contributes to the treatment of wrinkles and shields the skin from sun damage. Moreover, given that liposome encapsulation improves its efficiency, this anti-oxidant goes a long way in neutralizing free radicals to protect the skin from harmful damage via UV radiation. The enhanced delivery mechanism in liposomes enhances the efficacy of ellagic acid in combating skin-related issues. A free radical is a molecule that has lost an


electron due to damage, typically from UV rays or pollution. In its quest to regain completeness, it seeks another molecule to snatch an electron from. This initiates a detrimental chain reaction leading to the breakdown of collagen, elastin,


and other essential components that maintain the health and youthfulness of your skin. Like other anti-oxidants, ellagic acid


can be a vigilant guardian for the skin. It patrols the body, actively seeking out free radicals. Upon detection, it quickly neutralizes these free radicals, preventing them from causing harm to your skin and thereby stopping the onset of premature wrinkles. Liposomal ellagic acid therapy is a promising strategy to mitigate skin wrinkling and reduce cutaneous inflammation associated with chronic UV exposure, ultimately preventing photoageing.


Collagen booster


Liposomal ellagic acid helps preserve youthful and bright skin through another avenue. A 2010 study9


indicates that ellagic acid Structure of liposome


prevents inflammation and collagen breakdown. This works in two ways. Firstly, it impedes the production of MMP (matrix metalloproteinase enzymes), responsible for collagen breakdown. It then helps maintain collagen integrity and slow down degradation by inhibiting these enzymes. Simultaneously, liposomal ellagic acid diminishes ICAM, a molecule linked to inflammation. Since inflammation is a root cause of premature wrinkles, dark spots, acne, rosacea, and various skin concerns, ellagic acid’s dual action is beneficial.


Dark spot reduction Liposomal ellagic acid also emerges as an effective solution for diminishing dark spots, and surprisingly, only a modest concentration is needed -- just 0.5% can help. In a 2013 study conducted on humans,10


a comparison


was made between a 0.5% ellagic cream and a combination of salicylic acid, 1.1% hydroxy phenoxy propionic acid, and yeast extract against a prescription blend of 4% hydroquinone cream and 0.025% tretinoin cream applied nightly over 12 weeks. The findings revealed that both creams


successfully reduced dark spots. However, the ellagic acid cream achieved this without irritating the skin. Unlike the prescription formula, there was no peeling or redness. Trying liposomal ellagic acid becomes a sensible option for individuals whose skin may be sensitive to potent skin-lightening agents like tretinoin or hydroquinone.


Who can use liposomal ellagic acid? Liposomal ellagic acid is a versatile ingredient suitable for everyone, as all skin types benefit from its anti-oxidant properties. Its skin-lightening properties make it especially fitting for individuals—both women and men— looking to fade dark spots. Liposomal ellagic acid is also generally


considered a safe option, especially for pregnant women, making it an alternative to potent skin-lighteners such as Hydroquinone and tretinoin. Yet, for those with sensitive skin, it is always advisable to conduct a patch test first.


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