28 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES Temporal Dominance of Senation[4]
Note of dominant descriptor during application (2 minutes). Significant dominance >38%.
:
DYNAMIC TEST, evolution of massage emulsion sensoriality Legend:
Thickness Slippery
Creaminess
80 70 60 50 40 30
Combination of Pivot® test and static test results Emollient 2
Emulsion frame
Polymer 1 ✔
Identification of each 'sensory ingredients' contribution to sensoriality
0 Figure 1: TDS results
(Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum) is responsible of the gliding effect, the duo Myristyl Myristate and Emogreen™ HP40 (C15- 19 Alkane (and) Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene) makes the unctuosity during spreading and finally Emogreen HP40 (C15-19 Alkane (and) Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene) forms a non- visible film that prolongs the massage.
From sensoriality to an illustrative formulation To bring these sensory elements to life and translate the concept of ingredients expressed alternately or together in the formulation, Seppic came up with the idea of drawing a
parallel with classical music. Within a collection of formulations centred on the theme of music developed for in-cosmetics Global 2023, the formulation chosen for the TDS test was finalized with active ingredients, fragrance and colour to draw inspiration from classical music: its symphony orchestras, its ballets, its rigor, its poetry. The formulator becomes the conductor of
the orchestra, allowing the different excipients he has selected to express themselves sensorially in turn or in concert, just as the instruments harmonize and complement each other in an orchestra. This formulation named ‘Symphonic Feelings’ won the Bronze in-
cosmetics Global 2023 Sensory award. To conclude, to meet a demand for a minimalist formulation, it is possible to choose the right excipients to meet the desired sensoriality throughout the application of the product and to verify it with this TDS method. This sensory approach was revealed as a
useful tool to optimize the sensoriality profile of a massage emulsion, with a limited number of ingredients to create a sensorial journey. Finding inspirations in other industries makes it possible to have new data and speeches to describe our cosmetic products.
References 1. KuRunData/Mintel, March 2022; Kantar Profiles/Mintel, April 2022
2. Halpern BP. More than meets the tongue: temporal characteristic of taste intensity and quality. In: Lawless HT & Klein BP (Eds.), Sensory science theory and applications in foods. 1991; p. 95. New York: Dekker
3. Piggott JR. Understanding flavour quality: difficult or impossible? Food Quality and Preference. 1994; 5, 167-171
4. Wu AZ, Lee RW, Le Calvé B, Cayeux I. Temporal profiling of simplified lemonade using temporal dominance of sensations and temporal check-all-that-apply. Journal of Sensory Studies. 2019; Vol. 34
5. Pineau N et al. Temporal Dominance of Sensations: Construction of the TDS curves and comparison with time–intensity. Food Quality and Preference. 2009; 20(6): 450-455
6. Varela P et al. What is dominance? An exploration of the concept in TDS tests with trained assessors and consumers. Food Quality and Preference. 2018; 64: 72-81
Figure 2: Symphonic Feelings formulation PERSONAL CARE November 2024
7. Pensé-Lheritier AM. Recent developments in the sensorial assessment of cosmetic products: a review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 31 March 2015
www.personalcaremagazine.com 25 50 Time (second) 75 100 125 Emollient 2 & 3
Powdery effect Residual film
PC
% dominance description
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100
