52 COLOUR COSMETICS Triisostearoyl Control
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Pentaerythrityl
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Diisostearyl Malate
Triisostearyl Citrate
<80 µm
<50 µm
<40 µm
<70 µm
<90 µm
<90 µm
Figure 5: Dispersion of control without heavy ester versus selected esters at 3%. Particle size (µm). Particle size and fineness of grind (µm) measured with Elcometer 2020M002 (25°C, 0h). 45.51% pigment loading; q.s. emollients. Microscope pictures X400
Several parameters such as pigment
dispersion and compatibility, transfer resistance, sweat resistance, and coverage were assessed. Their performance was compared to a control without heavy ester to determine if they presented superior performance (Table 2; right).
Pigment compatibility The pigment dispersion ability of these esters was tested against the control without heavy esters. The esters provided good dispersion of hydrophobic coated pigments (TiO2
WHITE PIXELS ON BLACK CLOTH , Yellow Iron
Oxide, Black Iron Oxide, and Red Iron Oxide). The results were similar to the control, with Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate and Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate performing slightly better (Figure 5).
Transfer resistance Transfer resistance on final formulas containing the selected heavy esters was tested using the Texture Analyser and compared against the control without heavy ester. To test transfer resistance for foundation
applications, a W/O foundation formula was applied in a Biody plate (urethane elastomer) and left for 30 minutes to dry at 25°C. Using the Texture Analyser equipment in a horizontal position, the substrate was pressed between the Biody plate and a piece of black fabric, rubbing it end-to-end horizontally. Pictures were taken of the black fabric after the
transfer test for analysis to quantify the amount of product transferred to the fabric, by determining the % of white pixels on the black cloth. The values obtained (Figure 6) –normalized versus negative control– demonstrated that
6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Control
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Triisostearoyl
Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Pentaerythrityl
Diisostearyl Malate
Triisostearyl Citrate
Figure 7: ΔE Biody before versus after stamping with foundation with selected ester at 3% versus control without heavy ester. Average of three replicates
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
25 20 15 10 5 0
Control
-10%
-14%
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Triisostearoyl
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Figure 6: Computer Vision Analysis - % white pixels on black cloth for amount of product transferred with a W/O foundation containing 3% heavy ester versus control without heavy ester. Average of three replicates
Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate and Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate provide better transfer resistance than control, resulting in less loss of colour on the skin and less transfer of makeup to the fabric.
Sweat resistance To assess the impact on colour after the sweat test, a transfer resistance test was conducted using artificial sweat. A foundation with 3% of tested esters was uniformly applied in a Biody plate and allowed to dry for 30 minutes at 25°C. Another Biody plate was wetted with 0.1g of artificial sweat (Table 3). The plate with sweat was photographed.
ΔE RESULTING PRODUCT TRANSFERRED
TABLE 3: COMPOSITION OF ARTIFICIAL SWEAT, FOLLOWING ISO 105-E01:2013 TEXTILES – TESTS FOR COLOUR FASTNESS – PART E01: COLOUR FASTNESS TO WATER
Ingredients / INCI
Artifical sweat 0.05% L-Histidine 0.5% NaCI 0.22% Na H2PO4·2H20 NaOH 0.1M (adjusting to pH 5.5) q.s. Water
The stamping step involved bringing both
plates into contact and applying a pressure of 400g for 10 seconds using a Texture Analyser. Subsequently, the substrate with sweat was photographed again to check for any foundation transferred (ΔE Biody before versus after stamping). Changes in colour were measured using computer vision analysis. In general, the selected heavy esters
demonstrated superior sweat resistance compared to the control, with most of them exhibiting a ΔE value less than four when analyzing the blank Biody where the sweat and the transferred foundation would be. At this level, changes in colour are perceptible but not easily noticeable to the naked eye, and even less noticeable in the substrate with the foundation. In contrast, the control showed ΔE values greater than 4. Based on the findings, it was determined
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Pentaerythrityl
ΔE
% White pixels
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100
