26 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
How can sensoriality help to select excipients?
Lorraine Denois - Seppic
In the same way as efficacy, the sensoriality of a cosmetic product is key in the choice and the act of re-purchase of a cosmetic consumer. Focusing on self-care and wellbeing, today’s consumer is looking for desirable sensory experiences. Nowadays, the importance of the senses and the search for new immersive experiences are essential criteria in the act of purchasing. For example, according to Mintel, in China 45% of adults who use beauty products say they prefer to try innovative formats or textures that they have not used before. In the US, 55% of makeup users express
interest in products that change texture when applying.1
Since Covid-19 pandemic and with
the meteoric rise of social networks such as Tik Tok, consumers have been seeking out for excitement, immersive experiments and surprising products. Consumers have become ever more expert and expect certain requirements in terms of sensoriality. Every sensation, from the first contact
with the product, to the application and even after use, influences the image of quality and efficiency that consumers have of the product. Moreover, engaging the consumers’ senses creates an emotional connection between them and the product. The way a product feels, smells, and looks can evoke positive emotions, creating a memorable and positive association with the brand. These immediate feelings and linked emotions can engage consumers, achieving brand loyalty.
Minimalist formulations and formulators challenges At the same time, formulators are seeking to use as few ingredients as possible in cosmetic products to answer to the minimalism trend asked by customers. Indeed, one of the biggest trends is skin minimalism inspired by the association of sustainability of skin care routines with the promotion of more natural beauty. Similarly, the composition of beauty
products tends to be more minimalist, reducing the number of ingredients as much as possible while still maintaining the effectiveness and attributes of the product. To achieve this, cosmetic formulators need to select only the necessary ingredients. The excipients in an emulsion play two roles: stabilizing and contributing to the sensoriality of the formulation.
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
Emollients, rheology modifiers, emulsifiers,
are some of the excipients that have a role to play regarding the sensoriality of a formulation. In order to make an informed selection of the fewest possible ingredients for a minimalist formulation, formulators need to select ingredients that are as multifunctional as possible and that will contribute to the expected sensoriality. Yet finding the playful ingredients
combination to achieve efficacy and sensoriality is a real challenge. As well as results on the efficacy of ingredients, they expect suppliers of cosmetic ingredients to have data on their sensoriality. In a competitive landscape and to answer to the sensory beauty trend, formulators are looking for innovation in sensory ingredients. Traditionally, ingredient suppliers rely
on sensory analysis methods to qualify the sensoriality of excipients in pure or formulated form. Sensory analysis is a scientific discipline used to measure, analyze and interpret the characteristics of a product as they are perceived by the five senses.
ABSTRACT
A skin care emulsion was developed and launched, using sensory excipients. The sensory evaluations made it possible to know which descriptor is associated with each excipient, and at which moment of the massage the descriptor is expressed. With this test, Seppic demonstrated that it is possible to choose the right excipients to obtain the desired sensoriality throughout the application of the product, to meet the demand for minimalist formulations. This formulation won the Bronze Sensory Award during in-cosmetics Global 2023.
In cosmetic product development, the senses that are most commonly used are touch, smell and vision. Standard sensory methods used in the cosmetic industry involve quantitative descriptive profiling, which allows to obtain accurate sensory images of the products or product preference study. Yet it can be interesting to use new sensory
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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