70 ANTI-AGEING
Target name Pseudostellaria heterophyla Extract Retinol
Figure 1: Results of the transcriptomic analysis demonstrating Pseudostellaria heterophylla extract activates the expression of more genes with a stronger activation level than retinol
RAR receptors, leading to the transcription of genes involved in epidermal renewal, hydration, and matrix synthesis. Two complementary models were used:
PHE at 0.3% on a skin explant (34 years-old donor) or PHE at 0.15% on keratinocytes. After one day, a transcriptomic analysis was conducted to assess which genes were activated. Results demonstrated that PHE increases the expression of genes involved in the production of conversion enzymes, so that the intracellular retinol is better converted into its active form. Also, the active increased the expression
of the intra-nuclear receptor RARγ, the most dominant retinoid acid receptor in the epidermis, by +22%, increasing the potential use of the active form. This shows that PHE potentiates the use of retinol naturally present in the cells, to avoid loading the skin with external retinol. Thanks to this, the skin is not exposed to
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
a too large quantity of retinol that can cause irritation reactions. As proof, we conducted a patch test on humans that showed no irritation reactions with PHE even when incorporated at 1% in a formula, while there were slight irritation reactions observed with the retinol at 0.1% in the formula.
Going beyond: a unique signature for a strong efficacy To evaluate the effect of PHE on improving the dermis and epidermis structures, we first conducted a transcriptomic analysis after exposing NHEK and Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast (NHDF) to 0.15% or 0.1% of the new active, or to retinol. This analysis showed that PHE activates more genes than retinol, with a stronger activation of gene expression. This was particularly remarkable for
genes involved in barrier function (four genes significantly activated by PHE versus none significantly activated for retinol), fibroblasts
stimulation (six genes significantly activated versus two for retinol), collagen synthesis and organization (six genes significantly activated versus two for retinol), and elastin synthesis and organization (four genes significantly activated by the active versus one for retinol). PHE also activated the expression of genes implied in skin hydration and basement membrane composition (Figure 1). To go one step further and demonstrate
the effects of these genes activation on the structure of the skin, we exposed NHDF to either the active at 0.1%, retinol or bakuchiol. After three days, the levels of type I collagen were measured using ELISA test. While bakuchiol only increased the collagen level by 44%, retinol increased it by 158% and PHE by 133%, the difference with retinol being non- significant. This shows that PHE is as efficient as retinol and three times more efficient than bakuchiol on collagen synthesis. In addition, an innovative test was
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