ANTI-AGEING
conducted on a 3D spheroid assay. This cutting-edge model uses only cells, without surrounding extracellular elements, cultivated in a 3D environment, and allows exploring the fibres' organizational properties without exogenous interference. It was used to visualize the expression of SPARC and fibrillin proteins, two key proteins that play crucial roles in maintaining the structural integrity of the dermal extracellular matrix. SPARC (Secreted Protein Acidic and Rich in
Cysteine) is a matricellular protein that binds directly to collagen types I and III, facilitating their proper deposition and assembly into organized fibrillar networks that provide the skin’s tensile strength. Fibrillins, especially fibrillin-1, form the microfibrillar scaffolds upon which elastin is deposited to create the elastic fibre systems that allow skin to stretch and recoil.
With intrinsic ageing, the expression of
both SPARC and fibrillins declines, leading to the accumulation of disorganized collagen bundles and impaired elastic fibre formation. This disrupts the dermal matrix architecture, contributing to wrinkles, loss of firmness and sagging. Modulating these proteins is therefore an important strategy in anti-ageing skin care aimed at restoring optimal extracellular matrix structure. The results show an increase of SPARC and fibrillin in the dermis spheroids exposed to the active and to retinol, but with a significant stronger effect obtained with the active (Figure 2).
Figure 2: Effects of PHE or retinol on the expression of SPARC (top line) and fibrillin I (bottom line) proteins, viewed on dermis 3D spheroid models
All these in vitro tests demonstrated that PHE is more efficient to stimulate the expression of genes involved in dermis and epidermis structure, offering similar results to retinol on collagen I synthesis but with stronger effects on the improvement of the matrix architecture.
Fighting skin sagging and wrinkles, gently but strongly Based on the encouraging results on retinol equivalent activities, and as bakuchiol was described as efficient as retinol,4
UNTREATED PHE RETINOL
71
we conducted
three clinical studies to demonstrate the efficacy of this new natural alternative to retinol.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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