COLOUR COSMETICS Triisostearoyl Control
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Pentaerythrityl
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Diisostearyl Malate
Triisostearyl Citrate
53
Figure 8: Coverage obtained in foundation formula with 3% heavy esters versus control without heavy ester
that incorporating Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Stearate/ Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, Diisostearyl Malate, and Triisostearyl Citrate into foundation formulas can effectively reduce pigment loss on the skin when exposed to sweat (Figure 7).
Coverage To test what impact the ester could have on the coverage of a foundation, 5g of the formula with 3% of selected heavy ester is applied inside square applicator and uniformly extended on a drawdown chart on top of an automatic film applicator. All the heavy ester tested show good
coverage, comparable to the coverage obtained with the control (Figure 8).
Lipsticks The selected heavy esters were examined to determine if they provided enhanced benefits in lipsticks when included at 64.5% on final formula (Figure 4). Various parameters including hardness,
payoff, transfer and sweat resistance were evaluated. Castor oil (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil) was used as a benchmark to compare their performance.
HARDNESS
450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1
0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
TABLE 4: TESTED FORMULA FOR LIPSTICK WITH 64.5% TESTED EMOLLIENT Phase Ingredients / INCI
A Emollient tested
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax Beeswax (Cera Alba)
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
B
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, CI 15850 :1 Tocopheryl Acetate
Hardness The hardness of these formulas is crucial for ensuring a satisfactory consumer experience. If a lipstick is too soft, it can break or crumble during application. On the other hand, if it is too hard, it can affect the application by reducing slipperiness, for example. To evaluate the hardness and strength of the lipstick during application, the tip of the lipstick was cut to ensure it was straight and smooth. The Texture Analyser was then used to penetrate the lipstick with a 2mm probe. The force required to penetrate 5mm of the lipstick was measured as an indicator of its hardness.
The study revealed that incorporating
Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/ Adipate, and Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate in lipstick formulations resulted in a favourable balance of hardness. However, lipsticks containing Castor oil were found to be excessively hard, which negatively impacted their application. On the other hand, when formulating
lipsticks with Diisostearyl Malate or Triisostearyl Citrate, it is recommended to combine them with other emollients and waxes. Using them alone tends to produce lipsticks that are too
PAY OFF
w/w (%) 64.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
10.00 0.50
Figure 9: Hardness expressed by Force (g) needed to penetrate 5 mm of lipstick with selected emollients at 64.5%. Average three replicates
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Figure 10: Amount of lipstick deposited (mg) after applying 6 circles, with selected emollients at 64.5%. Average three replicates
November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Force (g)
Castor Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer
Dilinoleate
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate
Diisostearyl Malate
Triisostearyl Citrate
Pentaerythrityl Triisostearoyl
Lipstick applied (mg)
Castor Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer
Dilinoleate
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate
Diisostearyl Malate
Triisostearyl Citrate
Pentaerythrityl Triisostearoyl
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