HAIR CARE
High purity peptide to revitalise hair and scalp
Emilie Gombert, Cara Dewis – Oat Cosmetics
Ageing is a complex process involving various genetic, hormonal and environmental mechanisms. Similar to skin, the scalp and hair are subject to internal (chronological) and external ageing due to environmental factors. Hair is continuously renewing itself in a
three-stage cycle: anagen (growth), catagen (transition) and telogen (rest). Approximately 90% of hair is in the anagen phase at any one time1
, however only 100,000 to 150,000 hair
strands are visible. Two percent of hair is in the catagen phase and is no longer growing, as the hair follicle retracts to its normal length. The telogen phase is when the hair
eventually falls: 6% to 8% of hair is in this phase at any one time.1
The anagen phase constitutes
90% of the total cycle; it is the longest phase, lasting from two to six years and is the one in which biochemical activity is the most intense.1 The anagen phase becomes shorter with
age; hair no longer grows back as quickly and deteriorates on several levels, becoming thinner, drier, more fragile, more brittle, losing colour and volume and falling out permanently. These changes originate in the living part of the hair: the hair follicle, from the bulb to the bulge and can affect the scalp, causing it to become drier and more sensitive. This programmed ageing and the
accompanying decline in the appearance of hair, can be slowed down by acting on several key mechanisms in the hair cycle with a view to prolong it, thereby lengthening the lifespan of healthy hair.
The cause and effect of hair loss Hair is considered one of the most notable features of appearance and hair loss can negatively impact self-esteem, damaging a person’s confidence and mental health. There are three main causes of hair loss.2 ■ Nutritional: a nutrient deficit will result in scalp imbalance ■ Vascular: poor blood flow to the hair bulb starves the hair strand of the essential elements (nutrients and oxygen) it needs ■ Inflammatory: psychological stress, hormonal fluctuations and disorders result in an imbalance that cause stress at cell level On the scalp level, cells subject to stress will
release neurotransmitters, including substance P. These neurotransmitters trigger an acute inflammatory cascade which pushes the hair to enter the telogen phase prematurely, triggering sudden and rapid hair loss.
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Oat powder peptide as a novel, sustainable and multi-action ingredient Oat Cosmetics developed EcoPep (Avena sativa (oat) peptide), an Oat peptide powder (OPP). OPP is obtained from an oat by- product following an enzymatic extraction, concentration and purification step to target and isolate a novel oat peptide product. OPP has 90% (peptides) typical purity. The molecular weight of peptides present in OPP is directly related to its function at the scalp level. Peptides are present predominantly in the low (<1,000 Da) and medium (1,000 –
Uniform Texture Fast Growth Strength Thick
Volume and Elasticityy
and Drier DHT
Thinner Duller
Colour Changing More Fragile and Brittle Slower Growth Texture Changing
Hair Follicle Shrinking
Elastin Fibre Breaking
YOUNG HAIR
Blood vessel and Nutrients Figure 1: Young versus aged hair: structural and functional differences November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Collagen Atrophying
AGED HAIR
Blood vessel and Nutrients Reducing ABSTRACT
As we age, the appearance of hair deteriorates, becoming thinner, weaker and more prone to falling out. However, there are ways to combat these signs by targeting key mechanisms. Oat Cosmetics has developed EcoPep (Avena sativa (oat) Peptide), a novel, high-purity oat peptide which revitalises hair from the scalp, promoting optimal scalp health, reducing hair fall and enhancing hair density.
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