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COVER STORY: ELEMENTIS
An all-in-one solution for O/W systems
Consumer trends in oil-in-water (O/W) beauty products are increasingly driven by a demand for natural and sustainable ingredients. According to Mintel’s latest Beauty and
Personal Care trend, 61% of US adults expect brands to take the lead on addressing environmental issues, while 66% of Japanese adults are interested in beauty products with environmental / eco-friendly claims. Sustainability is now a baseline expectation
for consumers. They are prioritising eco-friendly formulations that do not compromise on efficacy, reflecting a broader shift towards clean beauty. Additionally, there is a growing interest in
multi-functional products that offer multiple benefits, such as hydration, anti-ageing, and sun protection, all in one formulation. This poses great challenges to formulators, as there are limited options of natural O/W emulsifiers that provide the benefits of formulation versatility, stability, and pleasant sensory feel at the same time. Elementis’ Bentone Hydroluxe™ 360
(hereafter Hydroluxe) is a natural, COSMOS approved emulsifying blend that offers unique hectorite rheological modification benefits, bringing easy, optimal and reproducible formulation of O/W emulsions with superior sensory attributes and soft, smooth skin feel.
The synergy of hectorite and xanthan gum Using only emulsifiers and waxes can limit the range of achievable textures and may result in instability and unpleasant skin feel at higher concentrations. Similarly, relying solely on natural gums with emulsifiers can restrict texture variety, lead to a tacky skin feel, and fail to address heat stability issues. The synergy between hectorite and xanthan gum enables the formulation of skin care products with outstanding stability and excellent aesthetic and sensory properties.
HYDROLUXE™ 360
BENTONE
Commercial Benchmark 1
Commercial Benchmark 2
After 3 F/T cycles BENTONE
November 2024 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
ensure the active ingredients are distributed evenly. From the chart below, dramatic improvements in suspension behaviour are seen from the Hectorite due to the higher yield values (resistance to flow) with the samples containing clay. When comparing the suspension property
of Hydroluxe against other emulsifiers like the emulsifying wax and the commercial benchmark, Hydroluxe gives a superior yield value at a 5% usage, indicating that Hydroluxe offers much better suspension for even distribution of actives, ensuring the effectiveness and improved texture and feel of the product.
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Overcoming the challenge of formulation stability O/W emulsions can be difficult to stabilise naturally, especially under extreme temperature conditions. Hydroluxe offers superior stability on freezing and at high temperatures compared to both Commercial Benchmark 1* and Commercial Benchmark 2** at a 5% usage level (see picture 1) (*INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60. **INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Water (and Polyglycerin-3).
Improved suspension properties With consumers’ ever-increasing demand of natural, multi-functional products with great sensory attributes and efficacy, good suspension property is an essential criterion to
Enhanced texture and sensory experience Hectorite Clay has a unique platelet shape that delivers a robust network and a superior skin sensory. Clay network builds an extremely stable honeycomb-like structure with a thixotropic rheology profile allowing the creation of a wide range of textures. Figure 3 shows Hydroluxe and the
commercial benchmark offer more thixotropic flow than emulsifying wax, with Hydroluxe giving the highest viscosity. Picture 2 shows that Hydroluxe creates
much more body and gives a richer, luxurious texture to the emulsion in comparison to the other materials, enhancing the sensory experience of the emulsion. Figure 4 shows the yield value of 5%
Bentone Hydroluxe™ 360 vs 15% of mixture without clay or Xanthan Gum. Even a 3x higher use level of the mixture without Clay and Xanthan Gum cannot achieve comparable results regarding suspending properties. The Hectorite in Hydroluxe impacts the product experience and therefore influences the consumer‘s sensory experience. When comparing the sensory profile of the same emulsion formulated with Hydroluxe
HYDROLUXE™ 360
Commercial Benchmark 1
Commercial Benchmark 2
HYDROLUXE™ 360
After 3 months at 40°C BENTONE
Commercial Benchmark 1
After 2 months at 50°C
Commercial Benchmark 2
HYDROLUXE™ 360
BENTONE
Commercial Benchmark 1
Commercial Benchmark 2
Picture 1: Bentone Hydroluxe™ 360 showing outstanding stability compared to commercial benchmarks PERSONAL CARE November 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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