COLOUR COSMETICS PENETRATION TEST
1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0
NGDO LL CO 1818 CATC CN 105 1688 Benchmark 1
Figure 2: The force required to penetrate the samples without flaking or dusting using various ester at 10%, as wet binder. Average of three replicates
delivered is closely related to the results of the penetration test. If there is excessive powder delivery, it can lead to crumbling or dusting during transportation. On the other hand, if the powder delivery is
too low, the sample will be too hard. This can occur, for example, when there is an excess of binder. The desired range for powder delivery is between 10-40mg, as determined by internal knowledge and methods. When the pressed powder is not hard enough and crumbles below 1000g force, an overload of the brush (>40g) with excessive powder occurs, as seen with emollients such as Benchmark 1 and Oleyl Oleate (Figure 3). The proposed light and medium esters
achieved an ideal brush powder loading, resulting in better performance compared to Benchmark 1 and Oleyl Oleate (Figure 4).
Appearance It is important to ensure that the wet binder has no negative impact on the visual appearance of the pressed powder formulation, and to avoid different colour tones in the powder due to inconsistent drying
Phase Ingredients / INCI A Emollient tested
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Tetradecane
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Methyl Glucose Dioleateanate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Neopentyl Glycol DiethylhexanatePropylene Carbonate
Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
CI 77891 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin CI 77492 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin CI 77491 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin CI 77499 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
Copernicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Bran Wax B Water
Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol
Propanediol
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract Magnesium sulfate
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0
1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0
Oleyl Oleate Benchmark 1 1688
Figure 3: Force required to penetrate the samples without flaking or dusting using various ester at 10%, as wet binder. Average of three replicates
POWDER DELIVERY PENETRATION TEST
51
Idea Loading Threshold*
■ Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate ■ Cetyl Ethylhexanoate ■ Pentaerythrityl Stearate/ Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate
■ Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate ■ Lauryl Lactate
■ Isostearyl Isostearate ■ Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Figure 4: Amount of powder delivered after passing a brush 50 times through a compact powder using various ester at 10%, as wet binder. Average of three replicates
of the formula. Using a colorimeter, it was confirmed that
there were no significant changes in colour, uniformity, tone, and intensity when using the selected medium and light esters or Benchmark 1, as wet binders.
w/w (%) 3.00 11.50 4.00 1.75 1.75
2.00 5.00
12.15 2.80 0.35 0.15
2.00
48.90 0.80
3.00 0.10 0.75
Phase A
Ingredients / INCI
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Tetradecane
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Methyl Glucose Dioleate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanate
Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate
CI 77891 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin CI 77492 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
CI 77491 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin CI 77499 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
Copernicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Bran Wax B Water
Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol
Propanediol
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract Magnesium sulfate
Foundations The chosen heavy esters were evaluated to showcase their performance as the ultimate emollients for formulating foundations or base makeup formulas when including them at 3% (Table 2, left).
TABLE 2: (LEFT) TESTED FORMULA FOR FOUNDATION WITH 3% TESTED HEAVY ESTER; AND (RIGHT) CONTROL FORMULA FOR FOUNDATION WITHOUT HEAVY ESTER AND INCREMENTING 1.5% OF COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE AND 1.5% OF TETRADECANE
w/w (%) 13.00 5.50 1.75 1.75
2.00 5.00
12.15 2.80
0.35 0.15
2.00
48.90 0.80
3.00 0.10
0.75
■ Oleyl Oleate ■ Benchmark 1
November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Force (g)
Quantity of powder (mg)
Force (g)
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