54 COLOUR COSMETICS % LOSS AFTER 6 BOLTS
35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
Castor Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Triisostearoyl
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Pentaerythrityl
Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate 4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Castor Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Triisostearoyl
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Pentaerythrityl
Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate
Figure 11: (Left) Amount of product transferred after a transfer resistance test with a lipstick formula containing 64.5% emollient. Average three replicates; (right) ΔE ceramic plate before blotting versus after blotting. ΔE calculated by computer vision analysis. Average three replicates
soft, making them better suited for lip balm or liquid lipstick formulations (Figure 9).
Pay off To ensure optimal product deposition, six formulations containing heavy esters and one with castor oil were tested for their pay off. The lipsticks were applied in six circles on a 3cm diameter circle on a white EVA foam. The weight of the lipsticks was measured before and after application to determine the amount of product deposited. It was observed that Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate and Pentaerythrityl Stearate/ Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate exhibited improved pay off compared to Castor oil and the other tested emollients (Figure 10). This can be attributed to the better deposition of the product when formulating lipsticks with Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate or Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate. When used as the sole emollients, Diisostearyl Malate and Triisostearyl Citrate tend to produce soft sticks that may result in uneven application and blotches. It is therefore recommended to combine them with other emollients and waxes when formulating lipstick applications.
Transfer and water resistance A transfer resistance test was also performed on lipsticks applications to evaluate if the selected heavy emollient showed the same behaviour
4 3 2 1 0 Castor Oil
Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Triisostearoyl
Stearate/Caprate/ Caprylate/Adipate
Pentaerythrityl
Diisostearyl Dimer
Dilinoleate
Diisostearyl Malate
Triisostearyl Citrate
Figure 12: ΔE before versus after submerging PMMA plate with lipstick with selected emollients at 64.5%. ΔE calculated by computer vision analysis. Average of two replicates
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
than in foundations. The formulas (containing 64.5% emollient) were applied with six uniform passes in a white EVA foam on top of a Biody plate and left for 30 minutes to dry at 25ºC. Then, the substrate was pressed against a white ceramic plate six times using the Texture Analyser equipment. After every contact, the EVA foam was
weighted to quantify the product transferred to the ceramic plate. The substrate was also photographed to later determine and evaluate the colour difference (ΔE). Limited transfer resistance was found to
exist with Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/ Adipate, when the weight loss (below 30%) and the ΔE (below four) were determined resulting in colour change difficult to see at naked eye. The results obtained suggest that these heavy emollients provide transfer resistance properties that are similar to Castor oil (Figure 11). In addition, a water resistance test was
conducted to assess the impact on colour when the formula comes into contact with water. The lipstick was applied to a PMMA plate using six passes and left to dry for 30 minutes at room temperature. A photo was taken at this point. The plate was then submerged in water
at a temperature of 25-30°C for 20 minutes, followed by a 20-minute drying period at room temperature. A second cycle of submerging in
ΔE BEFORE VS. AFTER WATER
water was done and after ensuring sample was completely dry another photo was taken. The difference in colour (ΔE) between the photos was calculated to determine the impact on colour after exposure to water. In general, the selected heavy esters
exhibited good water resistance, presenting ΔE that indicate that the changes in colour are perceptible but not easily noticeable to the naked eye. The results were similar to castor oil, with
the exception of Diisostearyl Malate, with ΔE value less than 2, at which level the change of colour is not perceptible by the human eye. We can conclude that the chosen esters can help boost the water resistance performance when included in a lipstick of the formula (Figure 12).
Conclusion The research conducted by Foresee LabTM
–
internal programme tracking market trends and consumer behaviour - envisions that key drivers like lazy perfection and changing environmental conditions will push shoppers to keep seeking makeup with extended wear as well as new alluring textures and innovative benefits that can excite consumer. It is evident that the colour cosmetics
category must meet these demands for innovation while not forgetting about performance. By harnessing the power of Schercemol ester range, Lubrizol offers the ultimate emollient solutions for high- performance colour cosmetics. Whether it is compact makeup powders or
foundations and lipsticks, Schercemol esters can provide properties such as powder binding, breakage resistance, good pigment dispersion, optimal hardness in sticks and transfer and sweat resistance. Allowing formulators to create products that meet the demands of consumers who are looking for high-performance, long- lasting, and confidence-boosting makeup. In the ever-evolving world of makeup,
Lubrizol Life Science continues to be at the forefront of providing solutions to enhance the consumer experience. Our commitment to assisting formulators in meeting consumer expectations sets the stage for a future where makeup is not just a beauty enhancer but also a tool for empowerment and self-expression.
ΔE AFTER BLOTTING Initial vs. blot 6 ■ blot 1 vs. blot 6 ■
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
ΔE
ΔE
ΔE
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