94 FORMULATIONS
A2 Propanediol Solagum™ AX
A3 Amphisol® K
B Emulium® Dermolea Labrafac™ CC MB Definicire® Argan Oil
MB Rosemary Oily Extract
Evicare® Toco Mix Preservative
C Gatuline® Age Defense NP
D Gatuline® Renew E Perfume Green
Tea Lotion
Propanediol
Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Demineralized Water Water
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Candelilla/ Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Polyglycerin-3
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Datem, Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Preservative Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract
Butylene Glycol, Water, Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract
Parfum F Citric Acid (10% Sol.) Water, Citric Acid
8.50
2 0.85 3 0.30 5.00
1 1 1
2.50 2.00 2.00 3.00
1 0.10
4 0.10 1.00 2.00
1 1 2.00
5 0.30 0.30
Procedure: Heat phase A1 at 75°C. Prepare the premix A2 by wetting Solagum™ AX in propanediol. Add into A1 under medium shear until the gel is formed. Check that everything is homogeneous. Prepare phase A3 by solubilizing Amphisol® K into water heated at 80°C. Then, add A3 into A1+A2, disperse under medium shear and maintain phase A at 75°C. Heat phase B at 75°C. Proceed with the emulsion of phase B into phase A at 75°C under high shear (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes. Cool down under slow mixing (50 rpm). Below 30°C, add phases C, D, E and F one by one until homogeneous. Check pH and adjust if necessary. Properties: Aspect: Ivory fluid serum pH: 4.8 ± 0.3 Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle A, speed 5): approx. 4000 mPa.s after 24
Suppliers: 1. Gattefosse 2. Seppic 3. DSM 4. Omya 5. Berje BIODINE V (2) Vitamin E
Squalane Vegetable Shea Butter Miglyol 812
Sunflower Oil High Oleic
Perfume C Citric Acid
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Squalane
Tocopherol Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Parfum
Citric Acid 9
2
2
0.1 2.5 2
2.5 1.5
q.s. q.s.
Procedure: Phase A; 80-85°C; While heating the water disperse the VEEGUM HS and Xanthan gum into the water. When the temperature is reached homogenize 30 min. During the last 3 minutes of homogenization add preBIULIN C90. Add remaining ingredients of A. Phase B; 70-75°C; Mix B while heating. Phase AB; 70-75°C; Add B to A. Homogenize 5 min at 10.000 rpm for 200g batch. Phase ABCD; Room temperature; Cool down to RT and neutralize with D to pH 5-6.
Suppliers: 1. Vanderbilt 2. Gobiotics 3. CP Kelco 4 Gova 5. Contipro 6. Creachem 7. Sabo 8. Gattefosse 9. Sasol
IFF
SPRAYABLE LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Purified Water
INCI NAME Aqua
Genencare® OSMS BA Betaine Genamin® KDMP
B Phenoxyethanol Dekaben CP
C Hygel LE375C
Behentrimonium Chloride Phenoxyethanol Chlorphenesin
Polyquaternium-37 (54%), Paraffinum liquidum (36%), Trideceth-6 (5%)
D Coconut Oil Refined Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil JD Lusteris™ Parfum
Parfum GOBIOTICS
SENSUAL DAY CREAM PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Water Veegum HS
preBIULIN C90 Keltrol T
Neocare SSG
Hyaluronic Acid HMW Powder
Pentylene Glycol INUTEC SL1 Glycerine
B Sabowax GMS MB
SabonalC1618 50/50 MB
Acticire MB
Apricot Kernel Oil Refined
Jojoba Oil Golden
INCI NAME Aqua
Argilla
Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Cellulose, Glucose, Fructose
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Sodium Hyaluronate Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate Glycerin
Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol
Jojoba Esters, Polyglycerin-3, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax,Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
PERSONAL CARE November 2024
SPLR % W/W q.s. 1.2
1
2 0.02 3 0.05
4 1
5 0.01 q.s.
6
7 7
8
0.8 1
2.2 1.8
2.5 4 3.5 E Genamin® CTAC Aurist™ AGC Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride (25–30%)
Aqua, Alpha-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Propylene Glycol
Dowsil™ 969 Emulsion Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium chloride, Trideceth-3, Trideceth-15
D-Panthenol 98% Panthenol, Aqua
Jojoba Esters, Jojoba Alcohol, Propanediol, Tocopherol
SPLR % W/W 88.85 2.00
1
2 0.50 0.70
3 0.25 4 2.40 5 0.50 6 0.50 0.60
2 0.50 1 7 1.00 2.00 8 0.20
Procedure: Dissolve Betaine in the water and heat to 55-60°C. Once heated, add Genamin® KDMP and stir until it is completely dissolved. Prepare phase B. Dissolve Chlorphenesin into Phenoxyethanol with slow stirring and low heating (appr. 40°C). Phase B turns clear. Add phase B into phase A. Add Hygel LE375C under high shear until the emulsion is completely homogeneous. Prepare phase D by mixing all ingredients. Then, add phase D to the emulsion under high shear for 5-10 minutes. Add each ingredient from phase E one by one with slow stirring until they are fully dissolved. If needed, adjust the pH with citric acid (30%). Properties: Appearance: Off-white milky liquid mist; pH: 4,5–4,8; Viscosity: 2.000 cPs (Brookfield DVI+, 20° C, spindle 62, rpm 10, α= 55 %); Stability: centrifugation @ 3500rpm for 1hr, checked every 15 minutes, 3 months @ 45°C, 3 months @ 50°C
Suppliers: 1. IFF 2. Clariant 3. Jan Dekker 4. Derypol 5. Olvea 6. Jojoba Desert 7. Dow Corning 8. Anhui Huaheng
INNOVACOS HAND MASK
PHASE INGREDIENTS/ INCI NAME A1 Water (Aqua) Butylene Glycol
FD 17-20-02F1 % W/W
up to 100
8.00
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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