SKIN BRIGHTENING
Using liposomal ellagic acid in skin care
Arun Kedia - VAV Lipids
With hazy skies, micro-particles, exhaust fumes, lingering cigarette smoke and other pervasive pollutants constantly around us, the skin bears the major brunt. Discovering the ideal products for achieving that coveted brighter complexion can be challenging. Can liposomal ellagic acid, an ingredient
renowned for brightening skin tone and diminishing hyperpigmentation, offer a solution?
What is ellagic acid? Ellagic acid is a phytopharmaceutical ingredient, which means it is derived from botanicals. EA is found in many fruits and plants, such as raspberries, strawberries, pomegranates, blackberries, and plant sources. It is a naturally occurring polyphenol compound synthesized by plants from tannins and various chemical compounds. It is rich in antioxidants, shielding and brightening the skin from UV harm.
Ellagic acid sources The following are some food sources that are rich in ellagic acid. ■ Strawberries: Considered the best natural source, strawberries contain ten times more ellagic acid than raspberries. Strawberry leaf tea is also an excellent ellagic acid source. ■ Raspberries: Linked to increased ellagic acid amounts, the tiny seeds of raspberries are rich in this compound. ■ Blackberries: They contain nearly equal amounts of ellagic acid as raspberries ■ White guava: A fruit that has limited ellagic acid content. ■ Red guava: Another guava variety with ellagic acid in limited amounts. ■ Pomegranate fruit: Pomegranate fruit contains lower amounts of free ellagic acid than strawberries and raspberries. ■ Walnuts: Almost equal to strawberries in ellagic acid, walnuts also offer omega-3 fatty acids and various antioxidants. ■ Cranberries: Although minimal in ellagic acids, cranberries are superfoods with diverse health benefits. Numerous studies have highlighted the
substantial health benefits of ellagic acid in combating chronic diseases linked to oxidative damage, such as various cancers, cardiovascular diseases, and neurodegenerative disorders.1 Additionally, ellagic acid exhibits wound-
healing properties by improving blood coagulation and demonstrating antimicrobial and antiviral activities.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Another novel delivery methodology is
nanotechnology. Recently, global consumers have shown an increased focus on health, beauty and overall appearance, leading to a seminal demand for natural healthcare products, including cosmetic and nutraceutical formulations.11 Scientists, recognizing the significance of
properties, efficacy, safety and stability, play a crucial role in designing and developing stellar healthcare, cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Natural antioxidants, with diverse benefits such as antioxidants, anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, and skin-lightening properties, are actively sought for integration into healthcare and cosmetic formulations. The last few years have seen liposomes used
As an antioxidant, ellagic acid has anti-
inflammatory properties and is a widely recognized chemopreventive agent. These rich properties have ensured that ellagic acid finds extensive application in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries. However, the chemical structure of this
heterocyclic polyphenolcomes with certain drawbacks.1
It is poorly soluble in water,2
and not in many organic solvents, hindering its clinical applications and significantly constraining its potential as a systemic drug. This calls for certain novel delivery
technologies and innovations that can enhance the therapeutic properties of ellagic acid.
Role of advanced innovations to enhance bioavailability of ellagic acid A commonly employed strategy to overcome the skin barrier for drugs and biomolecules involves incorporating appropriate vehicles or chemical compounds into transdermal delivery systems.2
These substances, known as skin permeation
enhancers, accelerants, adjuvants or sorption promoters, play a key role in promoting the penetration of topically applied drugs through the stratum corneum and epidermis of the skin. Chemical skin permeation enhancers are widely used to enhance the permeation of drugs through the skin.
in reformulating studies. Scientists are aiming to produce vesicles that deliver active compounds to the deeper skin layers (sub-epidermal). Several additives have been explored in combination with conventional components of liposomes, creating new classes of vesicles, such as transferosomes. Another area of study includes the
encapsulation of EA in chitosan-coated niosomes6. Topical applications with EA loaded into chitosan-coated niosomes are also among promising strategies for preventing UVA- induced skin wrinkles and photoageing.6 Advanced innovations such as
nanotechnology emerge as significant tools in novel delivery systems, contributing to the uniqueness, potential and versatility of healthcare and cosmetic products. Utilizing nanotechnology (including micelles, liposomes, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers) enhances skin delivery and targeting efficacy.
Liposomal ellagic acid: Unlocking therapeutic potential In this background, there are three primary strategies1
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to unlock the complete therapeutic
potential of ellagic acid: utilizing natural or semisynthetic derivatives, encapsulating it within effective delivery systems to enhance its solubility, stability, and bioavailability, and formulating molecular dispersions in polymer matrices. But when it comes to harnessing the
therapeutic potential of ellagic acid for skin brightening, one of the most effective ways is utilizing liposome encapsulation.1
Liposomes, or spherical bilayer vesicles formed by dispersing November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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