TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
methods to integrate the consumer’s needs such as Napping, Polarized sensory positioning (PSP), Flash profile or the one Seppic has used in this study, temporal dominance of sensation (TDS).7 At Seppic, in our research & innovation, and
marketing departments, we have employees trained to assess the sensoriality of our ingredients and formulations. We also have specific protocols for better precision and reproducibility. We are also working with external sensory
experts to test new methods or to confirm our internal results. These sensoriality data are important to evaluate the influence of our excipients and characterize their sensoriality to present the best description to our customers and guide their choice. To inspire our customers, the Seppic
application innovation team has developed a new sensorial approach, with two complementary tests, to obtain a stable facial care emulsion with a limited number of excipients.
A symphony of texture! Wishing to evaluate the sensory contribution of each ingredient in a skin care emulsion formulation, Seppic turned to the TDS, a sensoriality method widely used in the food and wine industry to qualify tastings. TDS is a dynamic temporal method that allows a subject to evaluate several descriptors simultaneously for the duration of the application. The TDS allows the determination of the
dominant sensation throughout the application or the tasting of the product to be tested.5 Indeed, the perception of a food or a drink is not a process frozen in time.2 During the consumption of a food product,
physiological phenomena such as chewing, salivation, tongue movements or swallowing lead to dynamic sensory processes.3
Thus,
orosensory perceptions such as aroma, taste or texture are dynamic in time when we eat a food or drink a beverage. It is the same for our cosmetic textures and Seppic wanted to apply this method to an illustration formulation. The TDS method is interesting as soon as
you suspect that the sensory characteristics of your products evolve over time. This method consists of presenting panelists with a list of attributes and asking them to choose over time which attribute seems to be the dominant one, the one that ‘attracts their attention the most’ and this throughout the application. This is an interesting method because
although dominance defines a complex structure with different definitions (intensity /novelty / salience),6
it seems more easily
intuitive for consumers than for trained subjects. This concept has the advantage of highlighting the relevant sensory characteristics for the consumer. The results can inspire marketers to qualify
the texture of a final cosmetic product and the way in which it is predominantly perceived during application. These results can be correlated with user wording from consumer sensory tests. In this study, first, Seppic has established, according to their sensorial claims through the
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TABLE 1: EMULSION FRAME FOR THE SENSORY PIVOT TEST EMULISION FRAME: simple, stable, light skin feel Phase Ingredients / INCI
A Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside Isononyl Isononanoate
Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum Demineralized Water Preservative
Properties: pH: 5.5-6
TABLE 2: LIST OF TESTED SENSORY INGREDIENTS TESTED 'SENSORY EXCIPIENTS': add one by one in the emulsion frame Emulsifier
Emollient Polymer Texture agent
27
w/w (%) 2.00 8.00 1.00
up to 100 as required
1 C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate (and) C20-22 Alcohols
1 C15-19 Alkane 2 C15-19 Alkane (and) Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene 3 Myristyl Myristate
1 Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 2 Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) C15-19 Alkane (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate (and) Polyglycerin-6
Amylopectin
TABLE 3: SIMPLE EMULSION FORMULATION TESTED WITH THE TDS METHOD MASSAGE EMULISION: Emulsion frame + Selected 'sensory excipients' Phase Ingredients / INCI
A Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside Isononyl Isononanoate
C15-19 Alkane (and) Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene Myristyl Myristate
Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 Demineralized Water Preservative
Properties: pH: 5.5-6
application, a short list of excipients. Then, these ingredients have been tested one by one in a neutral emulsion base, to identify the major descriptors associated with these excipients on spreading, during application and on finish thanks to an internal Pivot© test. Regarding the method, fifteen trained panelists applied on the forearm the various combinations of emulsion frames with one of the tested sensory excipients. They identified the differences between the reference (emulsion frame) and each tested emulsion with one sensory excipient, at the beginning, during and after the application. With the TDS method, the choice of the
sensory descriptors to be evaluated is defined according to the studies/pre-tests carried out beforehand and is to be validated according to the objectives. From this test, the most different excipients
regarding the key sensorial identified descriptors to reach the final sensory expected, were added in the neutral emulsion base. Once the emulsion stability was confirmed, the TDS test began. Regarding the method, trained panelists
applied 0.10mL of the tested emulsion on their own face according to a specific gesture with
a massage time of 30 to 40 seconds. During two minutes and each second, the panelists evaluate between four descriptors we have selected (thickness, gliding, unctuosity and film-forming) which one is dominant and give it a score. The percentage of dominance on the y-axis
is a ratio with score given by each judge and number of judges who scored the dominant descriptor. We have observed, at the start of spreading (initialization of massage), that thickness and consistency were predominant and then the slippery effect was felt. During spreading, the unctuosity was predominant and then after spreading, a film-forming sensation is perceptible, first co-dominant with oiliness and unctuosity (60-75 seconds) and then alone at the end of the evaluation (82-120 seconds). Powdery effect was not a dominant criteria
in this formulation according to the TDS result. Thanks to the first Pivot©
test, we were
able to identify which of our excipients were responsible for these sensations: Sepimax Zen™ (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) brings thickness and consistency, the duo Montanov™ 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside) and Solagum™ AX
November 2024 PERSONAL CARE
1%
8% 2% 1%
1% 1%
2%
w/w (%) 2.00 8.00 3.00 1.00 0.50 0.80
up to 100 as required
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