TEXTURES
Silky Underwear This smooth, powdery and gliding texture exhibits a mattifying effect thanks to 2% fibre blend, which acts primarily as a sensory enhancer in this example.
Quench Your Thirst Cream-In-Serum A water-based/oil-free serum that has the appearance of a cream, but with the sensory properties of a serum targeting very dry skin. Here, 4% fibre blend acts as a thickener for the water phase.
Formulating with fibre blend 2 Hydra-Silk Gel Elixir This cold-processed, velvety serum uses 1.5% fibre blend together with 0.1% xanthan gum to stabilize this O/W emulsion without the need for heating. The formulation achieves a smooth, lightweight texture. Distarch phosphate contributes to the velvety sensory, but does not play a role in stabilizing the emulsion.
Conclusion By combining the intrinsic properties of plant fibres with the synergistic benefits of hydrocolloids, we have unlocked new opportunities to create various textures in cosmetic formulations. The range of upcycled plant-based emulsifiers can bridge the gap between performance, sustainability, and versatility. By enabling cold processing, and aligning with natural and eco-friendly trends, it offers
TABLE 6: HYDRA-SILK GEL ELIXIR Phase Ingredients A
INCI Demin. Water
Cosphaderm Dicapo Natural
Cosphaderm Pentiol Natural
Rice PO4 Natural Glycerin
B
BergaCare FG M12 BergaMuls ET2
Grape Seed Oil Hazelnut Oil
KELTROL CG-SFT
Cosphaderm T70 NON-GMO ECO
B1 C
Aloe Stars Citric Acid (25% aq.) Aqua
Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate Pentylene Glycol
Distarch Phosphate Glycerin
Coco Caprylate / Caprate, Dodecane, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil
Cellulose, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Beta-Glucan Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Corylus Avellana Seed Oil Xanthan Gum
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Parfum
Aqua, Citric Acid
99
Supplier % w/w up to 100
1 1
2 3
4 4
4 5 5
6 1
7
1.00 2.00
1.50
3.00 2.00 1.50
5.00 3.00 0.10
0.50 0.10
Adjust pH
Procedure: Weigh in all materials from phase A and stir until everything is dissolved. Combine all materials of phase B separately and mix. Add phase B to A while stirring. Stir for 20 min. at 1500 rpm. Add phase B1 and adjust pH. Properties: pH = 5.2. Viscosity (24 h, Brookfield, 20 rpm) = 8400 mPas. Internal Ref.: SC100-ELA. Challenge Test DIN EN ISO 11930 passed (Criteria A+B)
Suppliers: 1. Cosphatec 2. Agrana 3. Various 4. Berg+Schmidt 5. Henry Lamotte 6. CP Kelco 7. Vögele
formulators an innovative tool to meet the evolving demands of the cosmetics market.
PC
References 1. Ramsden W. Separation of Solids in the Surface-layers of Solutions and ‘Suspensions’. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. 1903; 72 (477–486): 156–164
2. Pickering SU. Emulsions. Journal of the Chemical Society. Transactions. 1907; 91: 2001–2021
3. Binks BP. Particles as surfactants—similarities and differences. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science. 2002; 7(1-2), 21-41
4. Velikov KP, Velev OD. Colloid Stability. 2014; pp. 277–306
Baseline
C9-12 Alkane and Dimethiconol Initial (T=0)
30 mins 2 Hrs
24 Hrs
Baseline
Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethiconol Initial (T=0)
30 mins 2 Hrs
24 Hrs
Figure 4: Shine evaluation by image analysis of hair treated with Dimethiconol in Cyclopentasiloxane or C9-12 Alkane
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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