TEEN SKIN CARE


have a notably thinner epidermis than adults. This reduced thickness results in more delicate skin that is more susceptible to damage from external factors which increases the risk of skin irritation and dryness.19,20 In addition, teens have a less densely


packed stratum corneum, resulting in a less effective barrier function and diminished moisture retention capabilities. In comparison, adults will have a more compact stratum corneum (see Figure 2), providing a stronger barrier that aids in maintaining moisture and shield against irritants.21 By the age of 12, the structure and function


of a child’s skin corresponds to that of an adult, however their sensitivity remains.21 Teens typically exhibit a higher skin surface pH compared to adults. This elevated pH can influence the skin’s microbiome and therefore must be regulated in order for it to prevent certain skin conditions.20 Sebum produced in the sebaceous glands


is crucial for skin lubrication and protection. Young children produce less sebum than adults, resulting in skin that may be less moisturised and protected, but as they approach their teen years and puberty, they undergo several hormonal changes which have dramatic effects on the skin. Elevated androgen levels stimulate the


sebaceous glands, leading to increased sebum production. Excess sebum can mix with dead skin cells and contribute to clogged pores, impeding the natural shedding of corneocytes, leading their skin to become oily and acne prone.19


Hormonal


fluctuations can also weaken the skin’s natural barrier, making it more prone to sensitivity, redness and irritation which can exacerbate pre- existing skin conditions like eczema.23


Formulating products: dos and don’ts Understanding the structural differences and changes of the skin during the different life stages is crucial in the development of effective skin care formulations. Tailoring products to meet the specific needs of each age group, particularly the unique requirements of tween and teen skin, is essential for fostering optimal skin health. For tweens and teens transitioning from


childhood to adolescence, skin care routine and requirements evolve significantly, requiring products that address the changes to the skin’s dynamic. Just like adults, teens have diverse skin types


and concerns, so there is not a one-size-fits-all skin care routine. While skin transitions during puberty, often becoming oilier and more prone to breakouts, it still maintains a delicate nature. Fragrances and potent active ingredients


such as retinols and alpha-hydroxy acids are not recommended for younger skin, as they can be too harsh or ineffective.24,25


A simple,


balanced routine tailored to support the skin’s needs is far more effective than a complicated regimen overloaded with unnecessary and expensive ingredients.24 Other ingredients to avoid when formulating


for children’s skin is alcohols and sulphates. Alcohols and sulphates can strip the skin of its natural oils and disrupt its protective barrier,


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Credit: Canva.com Figure 3: Teens typically exhibit a higher skin surface pH compared to adults


leading to dryness and irritation.25 When teens go through their hormonal


changes, their skin is at its most vulnerable. Thus, using amino acid-based surfactants and formulating gentle, sulphate-free cleansers with cocamidopropyl betaine, complemented by humectants like glycerin, effectively removes excess oil, makeup, and sunscreen while preserving the skin’s natural moisture and minimising irritation.24 Based on the knowledge of tween and


teen skin, and their feelings of eco/social responsibility, products aimed to these age groups should predominantly contain natural and sustainable ingredients.6


butters are commonly used in teen products currently on the market. These formulations prioritise gentle,


protective, and hydrating ingredients to nurture developing skin while ensuring they meet parents’ expectations.26


Examples include shea


butter and virgin coconut oil, both of which add a little natural fragrance to the product as well as skin benefits. Some products harness the power of natural


oils and extracts, such as camellia seed oil and wheat bran extract, to deliver optimal care tailored to younger skin and hair needs. Camellia seed oil, a natural treasure trove of antioxidants and vitamins, is particularly beneficial for teen skin. These support healthy skin by promoting


hydration and protection against environmental stressors. Unlike commonly used adult skin care ingredients such as niacinamide and vitamin C, which may disrupt the delicate skin barrier in teens, camellia seed oil provides nourishment without causing harm.27,28 Similarly, wheat bran extract stands out as a gentle yet effective ingredient for teen


Natural oils and


skin care. Renowned for its antioxidant properties, it helps improve the skin’s texture and appearance while maintaining its natural barrier.28


This makes it a superior alternative for


young, sensitive skin. While essential oils are often advised to be used sparingly in teen products due to their concentrated nature and potential to trigger allergies or irritation, they can still offer some notable benefits when carefully formulated in appropriate amounts. For instance, tea tree oil is a powerful


antibacterial and antifungal agent that can address common teen concerns like scalp irritation and lice prevention, particularly in younger children.29 Alternatively, botanical extracts like black


willow bark extract provide a safer, soothing option for sensitive scalps. Known for its anti- inflammatory and antibacterial properties, this ingredient can help calm irritation and support a healthy scalp environment, making it an excellent choice for developing teen-friendly hair care products.30 Products intended for younger users are


bound by the same safety standards as adult’s products. Compliance with these standards includes ensuring the absence of potentially harmful substances like parabens, phthalates, and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.31 Younger children are more susceptible to


having a reaction to products due to the nature of their sensitive skin and their skin microbiome, thus the testing process for tween and teen beauty products should be both rigorous and comprehensive.


Conclusion Possessing a digital finesse and a socially conscious mindset, Gen Alpha will reshape a


March 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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