NATURAL INGREDIENTS Foam volume and stability over time
KRUSS: Dynamic Foam Analyzer* NATURAL Non-ionic surfactants comparison
300.000 250.000 200.000 150.000 100.000 50.000 0
EMANON EV-E BIO ■ Caprylyl/capryl glucoside ■
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
EMANON EV-E BIO PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Initial foam Final foam
Figure 2: Bubbles structure analysis of ethoxylated glycerides and alkyl polyglucosides using KRÜSS Dynamic Foam Analyzer in a hand wash formulation containing 4.7% laureth-6 carboxylic acid, 3% non-ionic surfactant (glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate or caprylyl/capryl glucoside) and 0.4% glycereth-2 cocoate at pH 4.5 Measuring conditions: 2% of formula in active, 100 mL of total volume, at 6000 rpm agitation speed
foam is associated with effective cleaning and a sense of gentleness. However, it is well known that formulations
containing high amounts of oil are difficult to show good foam properties. Thanks to the emulsifying ability of ethoxylated glycerol esters, we can achieve not only good formula appearance but also outstanding foam performance. This is depicted in Figure 3, where
glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate is quantitative (Figure 3a) and sensorially (Figure 3b) compared with a standard non-ionic surfactant commonly used in shower oils, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. As it can be seen, both evaluation
methods show that Emanon EV-E Bio presents better foam properties than PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. In the sensory evaluation, apart from foam-related properties, also significant differences are observed in the moisturizing ability and smoothness of the product.
Foam booster in cleansing products Additionally, foam booster effect is observed when incorporating this surfactant to a standard formulation, since an increase of foam volume in presence of soil can be achieved. Figure 4 illustrates this effect in a standard shampoo formulation.
Oil emulsifier and solubilizer The outstanding oil-solubility and emulsifying ability of ethoxylated glycerol esters also makes this ingredient suitable for make-up removers achieving excellent cleaning ability. Figure 5 shows the cleaning ability of
ethoxylated glycerol esters used in a makeup remover cleansing cream, in contrast to a market reference. Additionally, glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate also enhances its oil-deposition on skin, which
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brings a clear benefit in moisturizing products containing oils.
Oil deposition on skin can be measured by adding an oil-soluble red dye in a formulation containing oil and different non-ionic surfactants, applying it on chamois leather (human skin simulation) and mixing with water. After 24 hours, the chamois leather colour
is measured using a colorimeter, the higher the redness, the higher the oil deposition on skin. Figure 6 shows oil-deposition of shower
cream formulations containing respectively: glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and lauryl glucoside. The highest oil deposition is obtained with glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate.
Hydrotropic ability Dilutable formats in cosmetic products are gaining popularity due to their convenience and environmental benefits compared to traditional ready to use formulations. On the one hand, concentrated products take up less space, making them easier to store and transport, which is more convenient for end consumers. On the other hand, by reducing the amount
of water in the product, the packaging size and weight is reduced, leading to lower transportation emissions and less plastic waste, this makes dilutable products a more sustainable choice. These formats are considered a technical
challenge for formulators though, as they must be stable in concentrated form and after dilution with tap water. This requires a surfactant with outstanding hydrotropic ability. Ethoxylated glycerol esters bring a
formulability advantage in waterless systems, not only having clear and stable concentrated formulations but also achieving targeting viscosities after dilution. Figure 7 shows an example of a dilutable cleansing formulation.
Moisturizing
Figure 3A: Foam volume and stability evaluation of shower oil formulation (C-355) containing 40% of natural oils, 23.3% of non-ionic surfactant (glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate), 18.3% of laureth-6 carboxylic acid and 11.4% of PEG-4 rapeseedamide, using a SITA Foam Tester. Measuring conditions: 0.5% of formula in active, 40ºC temperature, addition of 200 µL of Bey Sebum, at 1000 rpm agitation speed
10 panelists
Sensory test Foam speed
5 4 3 2 1
smoothness Dry 0
Foam volume
73
Foam volume and duration in oily systems Composition with a 40% oil content
Maximum foam volume ■ Foam duration ●
140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Foam size
Rinsability Wet smoothness
EMANON EV-E BIO ■ PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate ■
Figure 3B: Sensory evaluation of shower oil formulations
Application in personal care products The emergence of new eco-friendly ingredients for personal care makes formulators able to design innovative products that address nowadays’ environmental concerns. Emanon EV-E Bio has been positioned in
many cosmetic applications considering the main technical properties that were previously described, bringing additional sustainability benefits: a lower environmental impact with an increased NOC in final formulations. In shower products, this surfactant has
shown exceptional benefits in terms of foam, not only boosting the foaming ability in the presence of soil but also providing creamy and gentle foam in shower oil formulations. Furthermore, the presence of high oil
content and its better deposition on skin, results in high skin moisturization. Finally, the hydrotropic ability that
March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Foam creaminess
Bubbles count per mm2
Max. Foam volume (mL)
Foam duration (s)
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