62 SUN CARE
Non-nano lignin powder SPF booster ingredient
Yuan Gao - Lignopure
Sunlight is electromagnetic radiation from the sun that reaches the Earth, the most invasive radiation in sunlight is ultraviolet (UV) light, including ultraviolet B (UVB: 290–320 nm) and ultraviolet A (UVA: 320–400 nm), which can induce photoageing and skin cancer.1,2
UVA in ambient light is much more abundant than UVB, UVB radiation is more energetic and can majorly penetrate up to 10% in the stratum basale, while UVA can reach the dermis. In this regard, UVA and UVB have different
characteristics and induce divergent responses in the skin.3
is carcinogenic and can be absorbed by DNA which causes photochemical damage to DNA by increasing the risk of gene mutation. Meanwhile, although UVA radiation is far
less carcinogenic than UVB radiation, it is far more abundant in sunlight than UVB, it is hardly absorbed by DNA, but the absorption by other molecules influences skin health indirectly by generating radicals, such as reactive oxygen species (ROS).4,5 Sunscreen is a photoprotective topical
product for the skin, which is designed against sunburn and skin cancer, in which the most significant active agents against UV radiation are UV filters. There are two types of UV filter in sunscreen: organic and inorganic UV filters, which also classifies sunscreens into chemical sunscreen and mineral sunscreen. Their efficacy as UV protectants is measured in
finished cosmetic formulations and is expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF). SPF is calculated by dividing the amount of UV radiation needed to cause sunburn on skin with sunscreen by the amount of UV radiation needed to cause sunburn on unprotected skin. The higher the SPF value is, the better the protection from sunburn.6
However, some
efficient organic UV filters have been reported instable under UV exposure, e.g. BMDBM (known as Avobenzone), which must be combined with a stabilizer in formulations.6 Mineral UV filters, e.g. titanium dioxide ), also have their own problems. Due nanoparticles’ strong aggregation
(TiO2 to TiO2
and sedimentation properties, it is not easy to disperse and stabilize them at a high concentration which increases the difficulties of formulation development.7 Switching to non-nano zinc oxide particles
often increases the ‘white cast’ effect, creating a visible whitening on the skin after application which is an undesired appearance effect for
PERSONAL CARE March 2025 Due to its high energy, the UVB radiation Although
many costumers. Besides, for both organic and inorganic UV
filters, it has been reported that they have a negative impact on the environment, especially on aquatic life. Therefore, finding a natural alternative way, such as adding proper SPF boosters, to reduce the use of UV filters or simplify the manufacture of sunscreen products is very important.
SPF boosters Together with UV filters, SPF boosters play a significant role in sunscreen products. In general, SPF boosters are compounds without UV filtering properties but can also increase the SPF value of sunscreen by an indirect mechanism, for example, by stabilizing the UV filters, by improving the film forming capacity of the sunscreen product or by scattering light to increase the UV protection of UV filters.8 Compared to synthetic SPF boosters such as butyloctyl salicylate, which share potential safety concerns due to their salicylate components—especially when used by pregnant women or young children, more attention has been dropped to natural SPF boosters, such as green tea extract and aloe vera, which are more environmental-friendly and healthy. Nevertheless, due to sourcing and yield
issues of many plant-based materials, the extraction costs are high, and the concentrations are limited. Additionally, some of these materials are not solely used as
ABSTRACT
Lignin is the second most abundant natural material on Earth after cellulose. The traditional lignin’s application is still petroleum exploration or bio-fuel production, and it remains underutilized. Lignopure has developed its own patented particle technology to process lignin, making it suitable for cosmetic applications and maximizing its functionality. Thus, LignoBase™ the first lignin-based ingredient line for cosmetic formulations was born; hereafter it is described as the non-nano lignin powder ingredient. Experimental results have proven that they can be used as an SPF booster in sunscreen formulations, increasing in vivo SPF by up to 81.29% or by 12.6 units.
cosmetic ingredients but may also serve as food ingredients. Therefore, it is urgent to find an SPF booster that is abundant in supply and does not compete with food resources.
Lignin as a natural SPF booster Lignin is recognized as a polyphenolic material which is also one of the main constituents of superior plants. Beside cellulose, lignin is the most abundant natural material on Earth. Usually, it is obtained as a low-value by-product of cellulose production and the paper pulp industry.9,10
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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