TEXTURES
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Figure 1: (left) Description of the relationship between the particle contact angle (θ) and the emulsion type; (right) Original camera picture of a water droplet on compacted fibre mix exhibiting an ideal contact angle close to θ = 90°
TABLE 1: COMPARISON OF THE TWO FIBRE-BASED BLENDS Product
Fibre blend 1 INCI Source
Appearance COSMOS ISO 16128
Use concentration
Additional functions Process temperature Accessible textures
Beta-Glucan, Pectin Cereal fibre, fruit fibre
Ivory-coloured powder Approved Ino = 1
<2% as co-emulsifier 2-3% as main emulsifier >3% as single emulsifier
Sensory enhancer, Thickener Hot or cold
Lotion-like texture pH range of final formulation 4-9 Fibre blend 2
Cellulose, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Beta-Glucan
Wood fibre, guar gum, cereal fibre White to off-white powder Approval pending Ino = 1
1.5%-2% as main emulsifier
Sensory enhancer, Thickener Hot and cold
Cream-gel textures of various viscosities 4-9
TABLE 2: COMPREHENSIVE SUMMARY OF APPLICATION ADVICE Product
Fibre blend 1 INCI Dispersion phase
Recommended process for best stability and viscosity
Appearance in formulation Sensory and texture Oil compatibility
Beta-Glucan, Pectin Oil phase
Short homogenization (Ultra Turrax, 7000-9500 rpm, 30-60 seconds)
Off-white in water and emulsions
Creamy, silky, caring, slightly less shiny surface, texture can be enhanced with fatty alcohols
Compatible with all oil polarities
■ Formulation stability: The resulting formulations were subjected to standard storage conditions (40 °C for 12 weeks) to evaluate stability over time. ■ Practical and regulatory aspects: Factors such as affordability, availability, geographic origin, quality reliability, and compliance with cosmetic regulations were also considered in the process. Our evaluation ultimately led to the
development of two synergistic fibre blends, BergaMuls ET1 (consisting of beta-glucan and pectin) and BergaMuls ET2 (consisting of cellulose, guar, and beta-glucan). The ET in their names stands for ‘emulsifying
and thickening’, emphasizing their dual functionality. These blends are both derived 100% from plants, and are complementary regarding the accessible cosmetic textures, offering versatility to formulators.
Fibre blend 2
Cellulose, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Beta-Glucan
Oil phase Stirring at 1500-1900 rpm for 10-20 min
Significantly whiter in water and emulsions
Cream-gel texture, shinier surface, texture can be enhanced with fatty alcohols
Not compatible with silicone oils or high amounts of alkanes; works well with esters and best with plant oils
1.5-2% as main emulsifier Recommended use levels
<2% as co-emulsifier; 2-3% as main emulsifier; >3% as single emulsifier
Size of oil phase Use as a thickener Use as sensory enhancer
Preservative systems with confirmed passed challenge test
8%-50%
4% in water-based (oil-free) formula- tions to create a semi-transparent gel
2% in addition to classical emulsifier system
5% pentylene glycol
Exceeding 3% can lead to very high viscosities, making thorough mixing difficult
Stability can be further boosted with gelling agents like xanthan gum (0.05%) or konjac (0.2%)
10%-30%
3% in water leads to excellent viscosity build-up of 14.800 mPas
To be explored
5% pentylene glycol Or
2% pentylene glycol + 1% Cosphaderm® Dicapo Natural (caprylyl glycol, propanediol, glyceryl caprylate)
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Comparison of the two fibre blends While both blends share a multitude of advantages, they still exhibit distinct properties in formulations. A summary is shown in Table 1. Both fibre blends are from 100% natural/
renewable resources and allow the production of COSMOS-certified cosmetics. They serve as emulsion stabilizers, sensory enhancers, and thickeners, and are produced in Germany. Furthermore, they are both hot- and cold-
processable without impacting the final viscosity, giving flexibility during production. They are very skin-friendly as they do not exhibit any surface activity. Therefore, they are ideal for the design of emulsifier-free concepts. Finally, stable emulsions can be achieved across a wide range of pH 4-9. What makes the two blends different from
each other is the accessible textures. While fibre blend 1 is the ideal choice for creamy, lotion-like textures, fibre blend 2 can be used to access shiny, cream-gel textures with a hint of freshness in various viscosities from serum to cream.
Know your Pickering emulsifier: general formulation and application advice
The emulsion stabilizers presented differ not only in their resulting textures, but also in the production parameters in which they give the best performance. With the following points taken into consideration, the two blends give additional flexibility depending on the available
March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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