Volume 26 Issue 3
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CONTENTS
3
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REGULARS 5
7 9 Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Natura-Tec News
100 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Interview: Testing times Ahead of the inaugural Testing & Regulation Forum at in-cosmetics Global on 10 April in Amsterdam, editor Tim Probert caught up with four participants - Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs; Mike Sohn, general manager of REACH24H Korea; Irene Cotogni, cosmetic product specialist at Neotron; and Elisa Esteve, product safety & regulatory affairs manager at Cosmeservice – to explore the key trends
21 in-cosmetics Global 2025 preview in-cosmetics Global event director Roziani Zulkifli
details what visitors to Amsterdam can expect from this year’s edition of the world’s biggest personal care ingredient trade show. There is also a round-
up of show floor highlights from selected exhibitors
36 Site visit: CLR Berlin Editor Tim Probert travels to Berlin, Germany to visit CLR, one of the world’s most respected companies in the personal care industry, to find out more about this proudly independent and science-first maker of cosmetic actives
41 Vegan certification: what,
why and how The market for vegan products continues to grow, especially in the cosmetics, beauty and personal care industries. The Vegan Society delves into common misconceptions regarding what is considered as vegan and its certification process
45 Gen Z & Gen Alpha: reformulating
the future Lake Personal Care explains why Generation Alpha and the later cohorts of Generation Z are reshaping the personal care industry. To address the needs of teenage skin, the personal care industry must adopt a forward-thinking approach. Reformulating the future of skin care involves using gentle, efficacious, and sustainable ingredients
50 The growing role of microalgae
in cosmetics Special Chemicals has developed biotechnological actives derived from microalgae through its advanced closed photobioreactor technology. This system is able to create a highly controlled environment for microalgae cultivation, ensuring consistent quality and
purity of extracts while minimizing ecological harm 55 Fantastic exosomes and how
to tame them Despite their scientific promise of regenerative capacity, the term ‘exosomes’ is frequently exploited in marketing without adequate scientific backing. Amid growing consumer interest, Exolitus explains why it believes it has emerged as a benchmark for rigour and authenticity, pioneering exosome-based solutions through verifiable research and nature-sourced exosomes
61 Non-nano lignin powder SPF
booster ingredient Lignopure has developed a patented particle technology to process lignin, making it suitable for cosmetic applications and maximizing its functionality. Here, German firm explains how its non-nano lignin powder ingredient can be used as a proven SPF booster in sunscreen formulations
67 Reducing opacity, UV filters
in mineral sunscreen Presperse details how the addition of boosting powders to a zinc oxide-based sunscreen system can help achieve a desired SPF with less UV filter, thereby decreasing opacity on the skin and creating a more desirable formulation for the consumer
72 Integrating sustainability
and functionality Kao demonstrates how a novel non-ionic surfactant not only supports the beauty industry’s shift towards more sustainable practices but also paves the way for future innovations that prioritize both environmental responsibility and consumer satisfaction
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March 2025 PERSONAL CARE 76 Oat beta-glucan active for
enhanced cell life Oat Cosmetics has developed an enriched oat beta-glucan active designed to preserve telomere integrity and rejuvenate the skin. This article explores how the ingredient reduces skin roughness, enhances radiance and promotes a youthful appearance
81 Harnessing the power of blue
biotechnology Solabia presents a Codium fragile extract, derived from green algae as a promising breakthrough in combating water under-eye bags/eye contour area while enhancing skin radiance and elasticity. Its unique composition of sulfated arabinogalactans offers potent bioactive properties that address the specific challenges of the delicate eye contour area
86 Anti-ageing ingredients:
beyond topical By focusing purely on topical strategies to slow down skin ageing, consumers are only getting part of the picture and companies are missing an opportunity to add value and gain customer loyalty, says Liz Hutson, certified naturopathic nutritionist and director of Sustaina-Life Ingredients
91 Algae + rice active redefining
skin hydration Provital details a well-known ingredient that activates the skin’s natural hydration and protection mechanisms, while simultaneously reinforcing the barrier function from the outside by stimulating lipid synthesis in the epidermis, particularly ceramide production. It provides immediate relief for dry skin and ensures long-lasting hydration and smoothness for up to five days now tested in a mixed and multi-ethnic panel
96 Plant fibres: emulsions without
emulsifiers By combining the intrinsic properties of plant fibres with the synergistic benefits of hydrocolloids, Berg+Schmidt has unlocked new opportunities to create various textures in cosmetic formulations
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