COVER STORY: NATURA-TEC ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
A revolution for skin longevity
Skin ageing is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, where inflamm’ageing plays a key role. This chronic inflammation, exacerbated by UV exposure, pollution, and oxidative stress, progressively deteriorates the skin by reducing collagen production and diminishing its radiance and suppleness. In this context, Natura-Tec CrystalRose™ stands out as an innovative solution that restores the natural resolution of inflammation, helping the skin to better defend itself and regain its balance. Thanks to the synergy between microalgae and the power of flowers, it stimulates pro-resolution mediators, reducing pro-inflammatory mediators and slowing down inflamm’ageing process. Its unique properties, biomimetic action, and
efficacy results, demonstrating its key role in a sustainable and effective approach to skin ageing.
The inflammation mechanism Inflammation is the body’s natural biological response to aggression, infection, or cellular stress. It occurs in three overlapping phases: The inflammation phase starts immediately
after injury or infection, activating immune cells and mediators like cytokines, prostaglandins, leukotrienes, and histamine. This triggers redness, heat, pain, and swelling to eliminate pathogens and prepare for healing. To prevent chronic inflammation, resolution must occur properly. Mediators such as resolvins (from omega-3), protectins, maresins, and TGF-β regulate this phase, stopping inflammation, repairing tissues, and restoring homeostasis. Following the resolution phase, the repair phase aims to restore normal tissue function. It involves cell proliferation, new blood vessel formation, and fibroblast activation for collagen synthesis. This step repairs the damaged tissue barrier and strengthens the affected areas. Inflammation is essential for defence
and repair, but its imbalance accelerates skin ageing. Over time, the resolution phase
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weakens, leading to persistent inflammation and progressive tissue degradation. The complex directly reducing pro-inflammatory mediators and stimulates pro-resolution mediators, ensuring an efficient transition to the repair phase. The exceptional efficacy of this active
ingredient against inflamm’ageing stems from the synergistic combination of Evening Primrose Oil, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, and Triolein from upcycled olive oil, enriched with eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA)—a key player in inflammatory modulation. This unique composition works through complementary biological pathways, ensuring global action on skin balance, protection, and regeneration. Thanks to its lipid-rich composition,
omega-6 regulates inflammation by modulating eicosanoids and inhibiting pro-inflammatory enzymes. EPA, a powerful omega-3, promotes anti-inflammatory mediators, reducing chronic
Before stimulation control - ■ After stimulation control + ■ 2% Natura-Tec CrystalRose ■ 5% Natura-Tec CrystalRose ■ Inflammation
Resolution
9 7 5 3 1
-1 -3 -5 -7 -9 -11
Inflammation -149.5% Resolution EPA +200% +150% March 2025 GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ● MANUFACTURE
inflammation and reinforcing skin homeostasis. Astaxanthin, a potent antioxidant, protects the skin from oxidative stress. Finally, biomimetic omega-9 enhances active ingredient absorption while forming a lipid film that locks in moisture and strengthens the skin barrier. This efficacy is further validated through
rigorous ex vivo testing, demonstrating the tangible impact of this active in counteracting inflamm’ageing. Ex vivo tests on mature skin explants (60
years old) assessed the active’s efficacy against inflamm’ageing. Explants were stimulated with PMA, an inflammatory inducer mimicking ageing skin conditions. This active was then applied daily at 2% and 5% for 4 days, ensuring homogeneous distribution. Its efficacy was measured using LC-MS/MS lipidomic analysis, quantifying 25 inflammatory and pro-resolution mediators, confirming its anti-inflammatory and regenerative action. The graph below illustrates the global impact of the active ingredient on three main activation pathways. The objective is to demonstrate how the active ingredient helps reduce pro-inflammatory AA metabolites while simultaneously stimulating EPA and DHA mediators involved in resolution, providing a synergistic anti-inflammatory and pro- resolutive action. The result show a significant decreases
of pro-inflammatory mediators (-149.5%), indicating a strong anti-inflammatory effect. The resolution of inflammation is enhanced, with a +200% increase in EPA metabolites, suggesting an improved ability of the skin to counteract inflammation. A +150% boost in DHA metabolites further supports the resolution phase, reinforcing the anti-inflammatory and skin-healing benefits.
Conclusion This harmonized synergy of Natura-Tec CrystalRose™ prevents chronic inflammation, a key factor in premature ageing, while promoting resolution and skin regeneration. By limiting cellular senescence, it preserves the skin’s integrity, hydration, and resilience, ensuring an advanced approach for long-lasting healthy and protected skin.
Resolution DHA Sum AA metabolites Sum EPA metabolites Sum DHA metabolites Figure 1: The global impact of the active ingredient on three main activation pathways
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Natura-Tec, a division of Ceratec Sarl. 221, Avenue Louis Lépine, Z.I. du Capitou, 83600 Fréjus, France Tel: +33 (0) 498 113 800
www.natura-tec.com
March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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Normalised values
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