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INTERVIEW


17


assessments during their beauty routines. Skin sampling systems are also


gaining attention, with potential for applying in vitro analytical methods to these samples, supported by biomarker and omics-based analysis. IC: In my opinion, two key innovations are driving change in the industry. Microbiome testing, a growing focus on the skin’s microbiome, has resulted in targeted solutions to evaluate prebiotic and probiotic claims. Ethical testing alternatives, including advances in in vitro and AI technologies, are reducing reliance on in vivo tests, which can be problematic for certain types of evaluations, such as SPF testing. These innovations make testing faster, more accurate and more ethical, enabling brands to comply with stricter regulations while maintaining consumer trust.


TP: What are the main cross- border compliance challenges seen for cosmetic brands? MS: First, product labelling – sometimes labels don’t comply with local language requirements, or they lack proper information, which creates gaps in consumer communication. Second, formula checks – some


ingredients may be forbidden in certain countries, but since the products may not be officially notified or registered, these restrictions might not be clear. Third, counterfeit products—


monitoring and managing these across regions is becoming increasingly difficult. Fourth, safety assurance—as there are so many different


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“Over the next three to five years, the focus will be on safety assessment and sustainability compliance. Sustainability, being a broad concept,


will likely be broken down into subcategories” Mike Sohn, general manager of REACH24H Korea


regulatory standards by country, it’s hard to define and ensure the safety of distributed products. Lastly, marketing certifications and labels—there are countless certifications, such as sustainability, vegan, organic, efficacy and religious labels, which can lead to misbranding or miscommunication with consumers. EE: Cross-border compliance challenges stem primarily from the differences in regulatory requirements between markets. For instance, the EU requires a robust safety assessment process and prohibits animal testing, while other markets may not enforce these standards or may have different testing requirements. Labelling standards, ingredient


restrictions and permissible claims also vary significantly. Another major obstacle is ensuring traceability across global supply chains and managing the documentation required for various regions. Brands must adapt to these differences while maintaining a consistent product identity, which demands careful strategic planning.


TP: How do you see the regulatory landscape evolving in the next three to five years? EE: In the coming years, we anticipate a stronger emphasis on sustainability and eco-conscious regulations. This includes stricter rules on packaging, the use of


biodegradable materials and limits on microplastics. Ingredient transparency will


become even more crucial, with consumers demanding clearer labelling and regulatory bodies responding by enforcing stricter guidelines. Advances in alternative testing methods will continue to gain traction, further reducing reliance on animal testing data. Globally, there may be a


push for greater regulatory harmonisation, driven by organisations and trade agreements aimed at reducing barriers while maintaining high safety standards. MS: There will likely be more regulatory changes coming from Asia, particularly Korea, Japan, and ASEAN countries, which may eventually influence other regions like Latin America. Following this, we can expect China and the US to take action as well. Over the next three to five


years, the focus will be on safety assessment and sustainability compliance. Sustainability, being a broad concept, will likely be broken down into subcategories. Additionally, the EU’s efforts


to incorporate environmental safety into the cosmetics market will have a significant impact on the industry. The industry should prepare for a deeper understanding of safety requirements and responsibilities specific to each country, while


closely monitoring regulatory changes. It’s critical to manage this information comprehensively to mitigate risks, adapt to changes and maintain competitiveness in the evolving market.


TP: What advice would you give to brands that are navigating multiple regulatory environments at once? MS: Managing compliance across various countries is complex and needs significant attention, time and budget. It also requires a skilled team with the right expertise. Many companies fail to anticipate the changes in the regulatory landscape, which could soon have a direct impact on their business. It’s crucial to have a systematic


approach, supported by an IT system that includes tools like chemical inventories, regulatory reviews, safety screenings, ingredient databases, testing monitoring and data storage. Leading companies have been investing in this direction for years, refining their systems to make them more time-efficient and reliable overall. EE: For brands operating across multiple regulatory environments, a proactive and informed approach is key. First, invest in a dedicated regulatory team or partner with experienced consultants familiar with the markets you’re targeting. Ensure thorough documentation for every product, as requirements


March 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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