88 SKIN CARE
helps to fade hyperpigmentation. Used with other natural vitamins and minerals it can also help with skin problems such as acne and rosacea. Glycolipids such as rhamnolipids and
sophorolipids also have multiple benefits, in addition to being completely biodegradable and sustainably produced. They are a type of biosurfactant with good emulsifying properties and are stable in a wide range of conditions. As a group glycolipids have many benefits including the following. ■ Anti-inflammatory ■ Antioxidant ■ Anti-ageing, supporting collagen production and preserving elastin ■ Sebum balancing ■ Supportive of the skin barrier ■ Conserve moisture ■ Antibacterial (effective against acne and other bacterial skin issues) ■ Anti-fungal ■ Anti-allergenic Depending on the type chosen they have
good foaming qualities and are particularly suitable for sensitive skin. Meanwhile, lipids and fermented lipids have excellent anti- ageing properties such as antioxidant, anti- inflammatory, collagen boosting and skin barrier conservation. Some of the key players in this arena include
rosehip, sea buckthorn, jojoba, camellia seed, shea butter and peony seed oils. These lipids have incredible skin benefits
in their unfermented state but once they are fermented this potentiates their innate beneficial properties and takes them to the next level. The antioxidant capacity roughly doubles, the ability to carry active ingredients into the skin also increases. They are easier to absorb than their
unfermented counterparts and are non-greasy, making them much more pleasant to use.
As within, so without The eyes may be the mirror of the soul but the skin could be said to be the mirror of our health. It is possible to help the appearance of the skin
with topical applications of various ingredients, but if we want to sustain good skin long term, dietary and lifestyle factors cannot be ignored. Just as many anti-ageing skin care
ingredients can help with factors that accelerate skin ageing, so can what we eat, drink and how we live. Below are some simple examples.
1. Collagen production Nothing can be built if the building materials are not available and collagen is no exception. The building blocks for collagen and elastin are amino acids from protein rich food. Obvious choices for non vegetarians
are good quality meat and fish. There is a sweet spot for protein - too much can cause inflammation and inhibit autophagy but sufficient is needed to supply the amino acids for building blocks. A rough guide is a piece of meat or fish around the size of your palm. Vegetarians can get protein from pulses,
tofu, nuts, seeds and eggs. Dairy products contain protein but they can also be very inflammatory, which is a factor that contributes
to ageing so other protein sources are preferable. In order to digest protein and other
nutrients properly and maintain optimal skin barrier function good gut health is important. This is too complex a topic to cover here but further information on this and other anti- ageing strategies are covered in the first of our 'Supporting the Skin from Within' guides. (
http://www.sustaina-life.com/anti-aging.) As discussed previously, collagen can be
broken down by various factors, one of which is glycation, via the formation of advanced glycation end-products. Refined foods and sugar ramp up the production of AGEs, so it is a good idea to avoid or cut down the sugary goodies and foods that convert easily to sugars, such as bread, pasta and white rice. Roasted and fried foods also contribute
to the production of AGEs, so keep them to a minimum and opt for slower, lower temperature ways of cooking as much as possible.
2. Cooling inflammation and reducing ROS Chronic, systemic inflammation not only affects the skin quality, it affects every cell in the body. Diet and lifestyle factors contributing to inflammation include: sleep deprivation, stress, high sugar content and refined foods and seed oils. Eat foods that are anti-inflammatory and
have a high antioxidant content. This includes highly coloured fruit and vegetables. Aim for a range of colours: green, purple, orange, red – the more the merrier as each different coloured fruit and vegetable contains different health boosting and anti-ageing properties, known as phytonutrients. Phytonutrients such as lycopene and beta carotene have photoprotective properties thereby helping protect the skin from sun damage. Foods with anti-inflammatory properties include: highly coloured fruit and vegetables, food containing so-called 'good' fats such as oily fish, seeds such as flax and chia, avocados, olives, walnuts and cold-pressed olive oil. Fibre from fruit, vegetables, legumes and pulses will also support beneficial gut flora and this, in turn, helps reduce inflammation.
3. Hydration Most of us do not drink enough water and other hydrating liquids. It is also important to cut down on dehydrating drinks such as alcohol, tea and coffee or at least to compensate by drinking more water. Just hydrating sufficiently with good quality water can make a huge difference to the health and appearance of the skin and the rest of the body and it is easy and cheap to do.
Other factors that promote skin ageing Both the gut and the skin microbiome can have a negative or positive impact on ageing. This can be addressed both externally and internally. Lifestyle and diet can also be used to promote autophagy but this is beyond the scope of this article and both are covered in our free PDF at:
http://www.sustaina-life.com/anti-aging.
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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