82 MARINE INGREDIENTS ** p<0.01 IL-1β■ 0.5% active ingredient + IL-1β ■ 1.5% active ingredient + IL-1β ■
100 80 60 40 20 0
-20 0 1 2 3 Hours Figure 1: Evaluation of the vascular permeability
Focus on watery under-eye bag/eye contour area The eye contour is a particularly sensitive and stressed area, where the skin is three times thinner than the rest of the face. It is poor in sebaceous glands, collagen fibres and elastin, making this area naturally drier. Additionally, daily gestures and constant
blinking weaken this area, making it more susceptible to environmental stress. Therefore, the eye contour is a very sensitive area that more quickly shows signs of skin ageing and fatigue, as crow’s feet wrinkles, fine dehydration lines and under-eye bags. Under eye bags are a major and universal
concern, affecting both men and women of all ages and skin types, including melanin-rich skin. They can significantly affect the quality of life by influencing the overall appearance of the face, often making it look tired, stressed, older and dull. Among the different types of eye bags,
watery eye bags are particularly notable. The presence of these concerns is linked to an accumulation of water and lymph under the eyes, caused by a slowdown in blood circulation and a deficiency in lymph microcirculation.
The thinness and sensitivity of the skin
around the eyes make it especially prone to these issues. It can be accentuated by the exposome- a combination of internal and external factors that play a key role in the health and appearance of watery eye bags. Internal factors, such as metabolism, and external lifestyle factors including stress, lack of sleep, poor diet (particularly high in salt content), lack of hydration, pollution, or smoking, contribute to the formation of watery eye bags. These factors can trigger inflammatory
reactions, increasing vascular permeability and slowing down microcirculation. Lymph stagnates in the vessels and leaks into surrounding tissues leading to fluid accumulation. This congestion causes vasodilation and under-eye edema, which can worsen the appearance of eye bags over time.
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
How Codium fragile extract can reduce watery under eye bags and enhance the eye contour Molecules extracted from Codium fragile target three key functions to address watery under eye bags: detoxifying, draining, and decongesting.
Modulation of inflammatory reactions Codium fragile extract acts as a detoxifying agent by modulating inflammatory reactions. When the skin is under stress, pro-inflammatory mediators such as IL-6 and IL-8 are released. These mediators are known to increase vascular permeability and act on endothelial cells, contributing to the formation of watery bags under the eyes.6,7 Molecules derived from green algae can
reduce the expression of IL-6 and IL-8. They counteract the deleterious effects of these mediators on the vessels, protecting the eye contour from hyperpermeability and the skin from inflamm’aging.
In vitro inflammatory modulation The marine ingredient was evaluated on human keratinocytes in the presence of the pro- inflammatory agent IL-1α (stressed condition) to analyze the release of pro-inflammatory mediators IL-6 and IL-8. In stressed condition,
vs Untreated control
+7%* * p<0.05
1400 1300 1200 1100 1000
Untreated control
1.5% Marine ingredient
Figure 2: Evaluation of Angiotensin Converting Enzyme (ACE) activity by fluorimetry
the results showed a 48% decrease in IL-6 and a 15% decrease in IL-8 with 1% active ingredient. These results were confirmed by a
transcriptomic study demonstrating the anti- inflammatory effect of the active ingredient on IL-1α under basal condition.
Draining properties of Codium fragile extract This ingredient also possesses draining properties. It significantly protects vessels from hyperpermeability in pro-inflammatory conditions. By reducing inter-endothelial space and vasodilation, this ingredient limits fluid leakage. Microcirculation is activated, lymphatic and
blood drainage are improved, reducing the formation of under-eye bags.
In vitro draining capacity Results obtained by measuring FITC-Dextran transendothelial flow showed that Codium fragile extract has a draining property, significantly protecting vessels from hyperpermeability in pro- inflammatory conditions. Vascular permeability protection reaches 98% with 1.5% marine ingredient (Figure 1).
Decongestant properties of Codium fragile extract The marine ingredient has a decongestant potential by increasing the activity of Angiotensin Converting Enzyme (ACE). By activating the enzyme, they convert Angiotensin I into Angiotensin II, known as a powerful vasoconstrictor,8
with direct action
on the vessels. Vessel dilatation and congestion are
reduced, and microcirculation is activated, helping to reduce watery under-eye bags.
In vitro decongestant capacity The ingredient derived from Codium fragile was tested at 1.5% to analyze its decongestant action, assessing ACE activity by fluorimetry. The results showed a significant increase in ACE activity of 7% with 1.5% of the active ingredient (Figure 2).
www.personalcaremagazine.com 4 5 6 7 Fluid and protein leakage 50%**
Vascular permeability protection
98%**
Vascular permeability protection
Plasma proteins
Vasodilatation and stasis
Increase interendothelial spaces
Vascular permeability (%)
ACE activity (nM/mg proteins)
Inflammation
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