SKIN CARE
term inflammation is damaging to many organs and systems and contributes to skin ageing and ageing generally. Many things can cause low grade inflammation: chronic infections, excessive UV exposure, tobacco, being overweight, hormonal imbalances, poor dietary choices and chronic stress, to name but a few.
4. Chronic dehydration According to various studies, many of us of us suffer from chronic dehydration. Not only does this affect the appearance of our skin, causing it to appear dull, dry and more prone to wrinkles, it also slows cellular regeneration and causes dark areas under the eyes. Many anti-ageing cosmetic ingredients
make skin appear plumper by attracting water molecules to the cells of the epidermis but this does not address the root cause.
5. Reduction in autophagy Autophagy is a sort of cleaning process the body uses to clear old cellular debris and thus improve cell turnover, making way for new, healthy cells. This process naturally slows down with age. In addition to supporting overall health by getting rid of damaged cells, younger cells are better able to retain moisture giving skin a more plumped up appearance.
6. Reduced skin barrier function The skin barrier is mainly present in the stratum corneum, During ageing, the structure and function of the skin barrier is changed or disturbed and it becomes more permeable and prone to inflammation. A disrupted skin barrier will, among other
things, lead to more water loss so skin will become less hydrated as we age.
How common anti-ageing ingredients support the skin from the outside There are various ways anti-ageing ingredients help to combat the signs of ageing. Some of these are covered below. Later in this article, the augmentation of the benefits of topical skincare products via diet and lifestyle will be discussed. Ideally, for maximum benefits, these practices should be part of an anti-ageing regime for anyone who wants to not only look good on the outside but have a body that ages well generally.
Sun protection Zinc oxide and titanium oxide are used in some natural sun protection products and are generally recognised as safe (GRAS). There are also various plant phytonutrients that give some protection. For example, Beauty Pie’s 2-in-1 Sunscreen + Primer claims an SPF of 50 and uses a ‘light absorbing DNA shield + chromophores’ to protect against inflammation, ROS and sun damage plus other plant extracts with anti-ageing properties.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) This causes a plumping effect by helping skin to retain moisture and preserving skin barrier function. It is a natural component of the skin but decreases over time.
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Lifestyle and environmental factors
negatively impacting HA include: UV light, air pollution, smoking, tanning beds, alcohol, stress and poor diet.
Collagen Collagen is very important in terms of maintaining skin structure and keeping it supple and firm but it is a large molecule and there is some debate as to whether topical application of collagen containing products do much other than moisturise the skin. There is evidence to show that collagen
supplements may help with skin ageing despite the fact that collagen is broken down by stomach acid to smaller constituents (peptides and amino acids). The theory is that this ensures that the building blocks for collagen are available so these can ultimately be used to synthesise more collagen where needed. This supports the fact that building blocks
of collagen are needed and providing them, ideally through dietary intake, is an important consideration in conservation of collagen.
Peptides As discussed above, peptides are the building blocks of collagen as well as other important skin proteins such as elastin and keratin. Peptides have a low molecular weight, meaning the molecules are more easily absorbed by the skin than larger molecules like collagen.
Vitamin C Even though adding collagen to a topical skin care product may be ineffective, that does not mean there are not topical products that can improve collagen production. For example, topical vitamin C has been shown to help in the biosynthesis of collagen as well as having good antioxidant properties.
Retinol Retinol is a Vitamin A based retinoid and a
well known anti-ageing skin care ingredient. In addition to promoting the production of collagen, it speeds up skin cell turnover and has an exfoliating effect. Retinol can also help improve skin tone by stimulating the production of new blood vessels in the skin and is used in preparations to help fade age spots. Despite these benefits retinol it is not
suitable for everyone. It makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be irritating, potentially causing dryness, burning and peeling. It is also unsuitable for use by pregnant women. A more natural option for similar benefits is bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol has gained popularity as a gentler alternative to retinoids. Not only does it not cause skin irritation, studies have shown it to be at least as effective as retinol with additional beneficial properties such as antioxidant activity and epidermal regeneration.
Ceramides Ceramides are a key component of your skin barrier and help to maintain its integrity and its ability to conserve moisture..
Less is more: making products more natural and multi-functional Having fewer ingredients and including those with greater multifunctionality is beneficial for all concerned. Consumers are also placing a greater emphasis on safety and seeking more natural ingredients. Niacinamide is an example of an ingredient with good multifunctionality.
It is a form of
vitamin B3 and promote better skin elasticity and collagen production. It also helps protect against sun damage and regulates oil production, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types. It has a brightening effect on the skin and
March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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