26 IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2025 PREVIEW


raw materials such as emulsifiers, rheology additives, and emollients can be formulated to achieve the desired results. The Compass considers two dimensions:


Skin Feel (light to rich) and Rheological Behaviour (fluid to solid). It highlights the correlations between sensation and rheology, with detailed graphs illustrating the sensory profile of each formulation and the key ingredients responsible. Customers can be inspired by the sample prototypes and use them as a basis for their own new ideas.


Ashland (5C70)


acts as a perfume fixative. Texturpure sa-2 is Ashland’s next-generation


biodegradable texturing and suspension agent for hair and body care. Building on Ashland’s leading R&D expertise in polymer science and polymer applications, it delivers luxurious sensory touch, exceptional performance and effortless formulation.


BASF (1C110) is showcasing Verdessence Maize, a natural and sustainable alternative to PVP and VP/VA polymers. It provides natural styling performance and is designed for various applications, especially crystal-clear pump sprays, as well as mousses with a cloud-like foam texture. Also on show is Lamesoft OP Plus, a


wax-based opacifier dispersion, which offers a high-opacifying efficacy and additional care benefits in rinse-off applications while ensuring easy formulation and cold processing. It is readily biodegradable and can be used as an alternative to synthetic, acrylate-based ingredients. In addition, there will be Oximony, an


extract of sustainably sourced Lysimachia christinae, embraces the longevity trend. Capable of supporting the skin’s own healthy levels of taurine, an amino acid naturally found in the human body, the ingredient enhances skin vitality, helping to restore its radiance, resilience, and firmness.


Berkem (5F90) will present Recellcl’In, a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from French organic Passiflora incarnata designed for oily skin. Its mechanism of action focuses on four key actions: reactivating sebocyte autophagy, regulating sebum production, preventing sebum oxidation, and providing a soothing effect. Its three beauty benefits are hyperseborrhea


regulation, reduction of skin shininess, and pore size reduction. It can be incorporated into skin care products for oily and acne-prone skin, mattifying and sebum-regulating treatments, or pore minimizers. Additionally, Berkem is relaunching Ko’Zen,


an active ingredient from quince tree leaves, offering soothing benefits for sensitive skin. A newin vivo anti-redness test on reactive skin (legs), including after shaving, addresses industry needs for full-body care. Previously, its soothing effect was tested only on facial skin, making this study a significant expansion.


Bicosome (5E54) has developed Bicoalgae Blue to help skin to delay senescence. They have combined spirulina, a blue microalga considered a superfood with wound healing, cell energizing and regenerative properties and resveratrol known for its potent antioxidant and collagen inducing effects. Bicoalgae Blue is a skin care delivery system


that stabilizes and delivers into deep layers of the skin the bioactives from the spirulina and resveratrol extracts’ promoting the senescent skin rebirth. Bicoalgae Blue has proven to accelerate cell proliferation in both young and senescent fibroblast, accelerating wound healing and delaying senescence. The ingredient reenergizes cells and


increases collagen production bringing back youth to senescent skin. Bicoalgae Blue is 99.6% natural origin, GMO-free, China compliant and suitable for vegans.


Berg+Schmidt (1B61)


Berg+Schmidt (1B61) is launching The Texture & Sensory Compass, an innovative tool designed to inspire and guide formulators in the world of beauty and personal care. It categorizes formulations into four galenic forms - milk, lotion, cream and butter - but goes beyond traditional expectations. It shows how natural


PERSONAL CARE March 2025


Bio-Nest (5E15) is showcasing SunCat, a double- layered unique encapsulation that enwraps a mixture of UV filters. This allows it to reach the maximum spectrum of UVA + UVB protection at low UV filter ingredient doses. It prevents particles aggregation offering


longer and safer residence time. It is easy to formulate and is not absorbed into the skin nor has direct contact with it, resulting in a nice feeling to the user when applied. Bio- Nest says formulators and users can finally enjoy sunscreen that is safe, efficient, and feels comfortable on the skin!


Biosyntia (11B01)


Biosyntia (11B01) will discuss how harnessing the natural power of perillic acid can create sustainable and effective solutions. Perillic acid is a naturally occurring monoterpene derived sustainably from citrus peel. This remarkable compound is the product of cutting-edge fermentation technology utilizing proprietary non-GMO bacteria. Its targeted applications span anti-


dandruff, anti-odour, and preservative uses, showcasing its multifunctionality in personal care formulations. In vitro studies showed perillic acid demonstrated an impressive 86% reduction in Malassezia furfur, the fungus linked to dandruff. Even at a low concentration of 0.2%, it surpassed traditional agents like climbazole and propanediol caprylate, both tested at higher inclusion rates. Eighty per cent of volunteers experienced a reduction in dandruff severity in vivo, with over half noticing a marked difference in just two weeks.


Bitop (5B100), a world-leading manufacturer of Ectoin natural, will be on hand to discuss its lab-grown powerhouse actives with multiple clinically-proven benefits that address demand for natural, safe, and highly effective skin care solutions. The German manufacturer is also inviting


visitors to its technical seminar, ‘The Skincare’s Must-Have Active: Lab-grown Powerhouse bitop Ectoin® natural’, at Theatre 3, Hall 13 (Elicium) on Wednesday 9 April at 11:20. This insightful presentation will reveal why its multifunctional active, Ectoin natural, is celebrated as an essential ingredient in skin care, while exploring emerging trends in the cosmetics industry.


Bitop (5B100) www.personalcaremagazine.com


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