74 NATURAL INGREDIENTS Foam volume - Boosting Effect


SITA Foam tester with soil Addition of EMANON EV-E BIO


800 600 400 200 0


0.5 13 25 Time (s)


Figure 4: Foam volume monitoring of shampoo formulations showing the effect of glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate as foam booster, using a SITA Foam Tester. Shampoo composition used is based on 9% of sodium laureth sulfate, 3% of cocamidopropyl betaine and 0.3% of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, at pH 5.5. Measuring conditions: 0.5% of formula in active, 40ºC temperature, addition of 200 µL of Bey Sebum, at 1000 rpm agitation speed


glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate brings is essential for the formulation of concentrates, which represent a promising movement to environmentally responsible products and practices. Several studies have been done to develop dilutable formulations, reaching up to 1 to 10 dilution systems that present superior performance.


Conclusion Overall, the introduction of Emanon EV-E Bio, a sustainable re-design of the non-ionic surfactant (Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate), represents a significant advancement in the personal care industry. Derived from responsibly sourced natural materials, this ingredient not only reduces


Oil Deposition


OIL DEPOSITION ON SKIN Shower Cream


17 13 9 4 0


EMANON EV-E BIO


Caprylyl/capryl glucoside


Glucoside


Figure 6: Colorimetry measurement of red-colour variation (∆E) related to oil-deposition on skin, tested in shower cream formulation (C356) containing 12.5% of potassium laureth-4 carboxylate, 10% of natural oil, 3% of non-ionic surfactant (glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside or lauryl glucoside), 3% of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3% of glycerine, 0.5% of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and thickeners, at pH 5.5


PERSONAL CARE March 2025


Figure 7: Viscosity profile of a dilutable cleanser (C-321), increasing viscosity after the addition of tap water. Dilutable formula is based on 23.3% of potassium laureth-4 carboxylate, 14.6% of propylene glycol, 12% of lauryl hydroxysultaine, 3.2% of PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate and 3.1% of glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate, at pH 5. Viscosity values given at 20ºC temperature


www.personalcaremagazine.com Lauryl 38 50 Shampoo ■


SH +1% E.EV-E Bio ■ SH +2% E.EV-E Bio ■


800 600 400 200 0


Cleaning ability


CLEANSING PERFORMANCE Face make-up base remover


59.8


32.4


EMANON EV-E BIO


Mkt reference


Figure 5: Cleansing ability of glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate used in a makeup remover cream (C-172) based on 6% glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate, 3% of cetyl alcohol, 3% of sorbitan oleate, 3% glycerine, 2% of oil and 1% isopropyl myristate, at pH 6.5. It is compared to a market product based on isopropyl palmitate, glycerine, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, at the same pH


environmental impact but also enhances product performance across various applications. Additionally, the environmental and human safety of this surfactant has been improved by lowering the 1,4-dioxane presence. The multifunctional properties of


ethoxylated glycerine esters allow this ingredient to be incorporated into a wide range of cosmetic formulations, from hair care to skin care products. Each use increases the total natural-origin content, infusing a robust eco- consciousness into every product. Furthermore, its excellent emulsifying and


foaming abilities improve the sensory appeal and efficacy of cosmetics, meeting consumer demands for products that feel as good as they perform.


By aligning with global sustainability goals,


this product helps brands build consumer trust and market share in an increasingly eco- aware marketplace. This surfactant not only supports the industry’s shift towards more sustainable practices but also paves the way for future innovations that prioritize both environmental responsibility and consumer satisfaction.


PC


References 1. Mintel. McDougall, A. 2025 Beauty & Personal Care Trends. https://www.mintel.com/


2. Castán, P.; Rodríguez, J. Composition for skin hygiene and/or hydration. WO 2013/156647 A1, 2013.


VISCOSITY PROFILE Hair & Body Cleanser (C-321)


x3 dilution


5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0


30 mL


100 mL


Concentrate 36% active


Dilution 11% active


∆E, oil deposition


Foam volume (mL)


∆E, % Cleaning ability Visc (cP)


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