56 EXOSOMES being delivered in these formulations.


Unique properties of extracellular vesicles Once released from cells, EVs can travel long distances within an organism, recognized and internalized by other cells through specific surface receptors.5


Upon internalization, their


cargo is actively processed by recipient cells, facilitating a variety of physiological effects. Similarly, purified EVs applied topically can downstream their signaling effects to skin cells. The unparalleled bioactivity of EVs stems from their molecular cargo.6,7


EVs orchestrate a synergistic modulation of gene transcription, protein synthesis, and signaling pathways. Furthermore, their pre-assembled protein


complexes and lipid matrices can act as readily deployable molecular building blocks, providing energy advantages and saving cells from the need for new synthesis. This efficiency is a critical energy-saving mechanism, particularly in stressed or ageing cells.


Benefits of EVs in cosmetic formulations Deep skin penetration EVs enable the transdermal delivery of bioactive compounds, optimizing absorption and enhancing the efficacy of active ingredients, particularly in anti-ageing and reparative formulations.


Biocompatible Unlike alcohol-based plant extracts, which can irritate the skin and require high concentrations to reach effective bioactive levels, EVs are gentle and efficient. They carry concentrated bioactives within


their cargo, delivering them at doses that achieve biological effects without causing irritation. This makes EVs a superior choice, especially for sensitive skin.


Superior bioavailability By encapsulating and stabilizing fragile bioactives, EVs enhance the proportion of compounds that reach their target cells intact.


Stability of active ingredients The bilayer membrane of EVs shields encapsulated molecules from environmental degradation, ensuring product longevity and efficacy.


Alignment with natural trends Derived from plant and other natural sources, EVs fulfil consumer demand for sustainable and effective cosmetic ingredients.


Encapsulation of active ingredients EVs offer an unparalleled ability to encapsulate various active ingredients, including peptides, small molecules, and vitamins, ensuring their enhanced stability and bioavailability.8 Companies like Exolitus are actively


advancing technologies to encapsulate such actives into exosomes. The natural lipid bilayer membrane of exosomes protects these ingredients from degradation and facilitates their direct delivery into target cells, enhancing


PERSONAL CARE March 2025 Cell menbrane


additional anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, allowing plant exosomes to deliver specific benefits. Exosomes from diverse sources offer


complementary benefits that can be strategically combined to create comprehensive skin care solutions. This blending approach allows formulators to harness the unique properties of each source, from the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory power of plant exosomes to the regenerative and hydrating qualities of milk exosomes. Together, these versatile vesicles open new


Small RNAs within


Extracellular space


Cell matrix


possibilities for crafting high-performance products that address a broad spectrum of skin concerns.


Figure 2: A schematic representation of extracellular particles, categorizing them into vesicular (exosomes and ectosomes) and non- vesicular particles. Exosomes are formed inside cells while ectosomes bud directly from the plasma membrane into the extracellular space. This diagram highlights their distinct origins and roles within the extracellular particle family as per MISEV2023


penetration and maximizing active properties. In summary, extracellular vesicles


revolutionize skin care by seamlessly integrating advanced biotechnology with real-world applications. This fundamental understanding of their potential sets the stage for their inclusion in cutting-edge cosmetic formulations, promising unparalleled benefits for skin health, rejuvenation and protection.


From plants to milk Exosomes offer remarkable versatility, sourced from both plant and animal origins, each with unique attributes that contribute to innovative skin care formulations.9 Unlike cell-culture-derived exosomes, which


often demand significant resources and pose ethical challenges, exosomes isolated from naturally occurring biological systems offer a more sustainable and ethically sound alternative. ■ Milk exosomes, naturally rich in growth factors, peptides, and signaling molecules, offer unique benefits for skin repair and hydration. Their mammalian origin enables seamless compatibility with human skin cells, ensuring effective delivery of their payload making them particularly effective in promoting skin regeneration and repair.10 ■ Plant-derived exosomes also exhibit structural and functional similarities to their mammalian counterparts, ensuring efficient cross-kingdom communication with human skin cells.11,12


Beyond their RNA, protein, and


lipid cargo, plant exosomes also contain secondary metabolites such as polyphenols and flavonoids, which further enhance their functionality.13


These metabolites contribute


Milk exosomes: Nature’s blueprint for skin regeneration and repair As the primary purpose of milk is to supply nutrients and molecules that support and protect newborns, these exosomes are particularly effective at promoting cellular renewal and barrier restoration. 95% of the miRNAs found in human milk are also present in bovine milk, where they regulate processes such as immune modulation and skin cellular repair.14,15 For example, miR-2478 inhibits the


expression of Rap1a protein and reduces melanin production.16


found in bovine milk exosomes, 53 are also found in human milk.17


Of the 239 proteins These proteins are


responsible for cell maintenance, regeneration and repair, innate immunity, and shielding skin from environmental stressors.


Exolitus milk exosomes in vitro results ■ Significant increase in the metabolic activity


of fibroblasts (by 64%), which represent the deeper mesodermal layers of the skin, and keratinocytes (31%), which form the epidermis, the outermost layer. This means improved skin regeneration and vitality, supporting the skin’s ability to repair itself and maintain a healthy, youthful appearance. ■ 20% improved skin cell migration, leading to enhanced micro-wound healing (Figure 3)


In vivo results ■ Improved acne scar healing (Figure 4) ■ Soothing effect (reduction of redness) of allergic reactions (Figure 4) and faster recovery after microneedling procedures ■ After weekly in-clinic appointments for four weeks, A-One Smart Analyzer showed increased elasticity, lower pigmentation, improved hydration, and reduced wrinkles


The role ofMelissa officinalis and raspberry exosomes Exolitus specializes in producing exosomes from plants themselves rather than plant cell cultures, offering unparalleled flexibility to explore and harness the benefits of diverse plant sources. This approach allows for targeted testing of various plants to address specific skin concerns. Additionally, by utilizing plant materials


that might otherwise go unused or discarded, companies can contribute to a sustainable solution, transforming potential waste into high-value cosmetic ingredients.


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