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18 INTERVIEW


like safety assessments, product information files (PIF) and Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) certification are non-negotiable in many regions. Stay updated on regulatory changes and build flexibility into your processes to adapt quickly. Most importantly, prioritise


transparency and compliance from the start – it’s far more cost- effective than addressing non- compliance issues later.


TP: What do you predict for the future of testing in the beauty and cosmetics industry? AC: Since the 1990s, testing services in the beauty market have played a crucial role in product development, spanning from R&D and formulation to regulatory compliance and scientific communication. The field continues to


evolve, driven by technological advancements such as AI, biomarkers, optical imaging, omics, and microscopy, alongside shifts in consumer behaviour, regulations and environmental concerns. A recent US consulting report predicts that AI-driven tools will influence up to 70% of customer interactions by 2027, highlighting the increasing demand for personalised beauty solutions. In collaboration with Pascale


Barlier (Cos&Co) and Jean-Jacques Servant (ACT4C), Skinobs identified over 70 diagnostic tools worldwide in 2024 capable of analysing at-home skin and hair conditions. These innovations will allow brands to collect real-time, long-term data on consumer routines, enabling science-based insights directly from users. Consumers themselves will


become active participants in testing, sharing both subjective feedback and objective skin data. The future of testing will


likely incorporate connected and nomadic diagnostic tools, allowing individuals to assess their skin at home. Beyond personalised diagnostics, product evaluation will likely take a more holistic approach, with study protocols integrating physiological, behavioural and cognitive measurements to demonstrate efficacy. In parallel, highly targeted


in vitro and ex vivo studies will be conducted to predict the impact of specific ingredients, providing precise insights into biological mechanisms – whether for anti- pollution benefits, longevity or other targeted skin treatments. IC: First, regulatory bodies are


PERSONAL CARE March 2025


accelerating the introduction of new regulations to ensure higher standards for safety and sustainability. This rapid increase in regulatory oversight will continue in the coming years. Second, we may see


greater efforts toward global harmonisation, with standardised testing requirements across regions to simplify compliance and create a more unified market. Additionally, advancements


in molecular-level analyses and microbiome testing could play a larger role in product evaluation, offering deeper insights into skin health and ingredient efficacy. Finally, I believe consumer participation in real-world testing will grow, with innovations like wearable devices providing real-time feedback on product effectiveness. This shift will enable more dynamic, data-driven insights into how products perform in everyday conditions.


TP: What will be the focus of your presentation at the new Testing & Regulation Forum at in-cosmetics Global next month? MS: It will be about how well you provide expert experience and service per country or countries. How well you provide local solutions and tips to minimise the risk, cost and time considering the regional regulatory environment and application based on the know-how. My session will


basically provide the latest updates and movements on the Asian region; China and Korea. How will these changes affect the industry and other regulations in the region? And it will explain how it’s being differentiated with the regulations in the US or EU. How well to cope with the changes and how the Asian market evolves and is influenced by Western regulatory changes. EE: I will focus on navigating the complexities of global regulatory landscapes, with a particular emphasis on bridging gaps between major markets like the EU, the US and Canada. My session will highlight best practices for compliance, strategies for managing cross-border challenges and insights into emerging trends such as sustainability-focused regulations. Visitors can expect to


gain practical knowledge and actionable advice that will help them streamline their regulatory processes and stay ahead in a competitive market. The forum aims to foster collaboration and innovation by providing a platform. IC: My session will focus on a regulatory issue that may seem simple but has a significant impact: allergens. Allergens in cosmetics are a perfect example of the importance of human health and safety, increasing regulations and chemical analysis as part of a company’s testing strategy.


“The future of testing will likely incorporate connected and nomadic diagnostic tools,


allowing individuals to assess their skin at home” Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs


While efficacy and in vitro tests


are important, chemical tests also play a key role by providing the initial information needed to assess a product’s safety. My main takeaway for visitors will be the understanding that biological and chemical tests are complementary. Together, they serve as essential tools to comply with the law and, more importantly, to build consumer trust through scientific evidence and data. AC: In my session, I will be focusing on the cutting-edge biometrological technologies that are shaping the future of skin care, especially in relation to reverse ageing, longevity, and pollution. We’ll explore how imaging skin at


various scales, from the centimetre to the nanoscale, is becoming crucial. By measuring elements such as water, lipids, the dermal- epidermal junction, extracellular matrix and fibres, we gain insights into how skin interacts with products and how their performance can be assessed more effectively. Visitors will also learn about


the wide array of techniques used to assess reverse-ageing effects, including non-invasive, non- contact and direct measurement methods. These approaches rely on advanced technology like AI and algorithms, which are transforming how we analyse skin longevity and the effectiveness of new cosmetic treatments. The inaugural in-cosmetics


Global Testing & Regulation Forum takes place on 10 April at RAI Amsterdam. For more information and to register to attend, visit https://www.in- cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/ register-now.html


PC www.personalcaremagazine.com


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