FORMULATIONS
101
Glycerin B Jeenchem NDA-LC C Geogard 221
Niacinamide C9-12 Alkane
Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil
5.00 5.00
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol 3 Citric Acid
2 20.00 2.00 1.00 q.s.
Procedure: Combine Phase A and heat to 75°C with stirring. Start cooling with propeller stirring to 60°C. Once temperature is reached, add Phase B to A using a homogenizer and homogenize for several minutes. Continue cooling with propeller stirring. At below 40°C, add Phase C. Adjust pH using Phase D if necessary. Properties: Appearance: Light yellow lotion
Suppliers: 1. Elementis 2. Jeen 3. Arxada
Keltrol CG-SFT Optiphen ND
B Kostol Natural E
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid
Sustainable Beeswax Beeswax NaturalAtum
Kester Wax K-24 Cetiol CC
GATTEFOSSÉ DREAMY CLOUD CREAM
PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME
A Demineralized water Water Avicel® PC 591 Glycerin
A2 Beaute By Roquette® St 118 B Emulium® Dolcea MB
Lipocire™ A SG Mod MB
Lexfeel™ N5 MB Preservative
C Unicert® Red
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum
Glycerin Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch
Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Water, Polyglycerin-3
C10-18 Triglycerides Octyldodecyl Myristate
Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/ Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Preservative
07004 J (0.1% Sol.) Water, Red 4 Elevastin™
D Perfume Plum Cream 1004193 Fragrance E Citric Acid (10% Sol.) Water, Citric Acid F Sunshine® Fine White Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide
Propanediol, Betaine, Water, Murraya Koenigii Stem Extract
3 2
Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate 1 1
Canola Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate
Lauryl Laurate Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1 1 4
0.5 0.8 4.0
2.0 7.5
5.0 3.0
2853-1.10
SPLR % W/W 72.22
2 0.63 5.00
2 2.50 3 3.50
3 2.00 3 5.00
4 5.00 1.00
5 0.30 3
1.00
6 0.30 0.55 1.00
7
Procedure: Heat water and glycerin of phase A1 at 75°C, add Avicel® PC 591 and disperse under high shear (rotor stator 3000rpm) during 15 minutes until complete homogeneity. Add phase A2 into A1 at 75°C. Disperse under high shear for 10 minutes. Check that everything is homogeneous. Heat the oil phase B at 75°C. Proceed with the emulsion of phase B into phase A at 75°C under high shear (3000 rpm) in order to add as much air as possible and maintain the high shear for 10 minutes. Cool down under low shear in order not to break air bubbles. The cool down process could take up to 90 minutes, but this is a very important step. Under 30°C, add phases C, D, E and F
one by one, always under low shear. Check pH and adjust if necessary. Note: all the process is done without using vacuum to create the maximum of air bubbles.
Properties: Aspect: Pink mousse cream pH: 5.7 ± 0.3 Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle C, speed 5): approx. 50000 mPa.s after 24h
Suppliers: 1. Dupont 2. Roquette 3. Gattefossé 4. Inolex 5. Sensient 6. Berje 7. Sun Chemical
Procedure: water and mix until fully hydrated heating to 80-85°C. Premix and Xanthan Gum, add to Phase A and mix until uniform . Combine B ingredients and heat to 80 -85°C. Phase B to Phase A, mix at high speed until emulsion is smooth .Cool desired pour temperature and fill containers. Properties: Three months at 45°C, three C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.
Suppliers: 1. Keunen, Inc. 2. Brenntag Specialties 3. CP Kelco 4. BASF
LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS SKINPEACE DEWY LOTION
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Deionized Water Keltrol® CG
B Heliosoft™
Dub 810 C MB Cetiol OE
Lipex SheaSoft™
Kahlwax 6290 (Berry Wax)
C E-Leen® Green B Dendriclear™
D IBR-Chill™
INCI NAME Water
Xanthan Gum
Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Behenate (and) Lecithin
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Dicaprylyl Ether
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera
Pentylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Benzoic Acid
Glycerin (and) Water (and) Polylysine
Glycerin (and) Water (and) Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
1
21-4.22
SPLR % W/W 77.8 5
2 2.00 3 5.50
4 5.50 5 2.00
6 2.00 7 3.00
2 0.40 2 1.00
Procedure: Prepare and heat phase A at 75-80°C. During heating phase, sprinkle Xanthan Gum into Water and stir until the gel is fully developed. Prepare and heat phase B at 75-80°C. Add B into A under maximum stirring (Rotor stator homogenizer) and maintain for 10 minutes to emulsify. Cool down under medium stirring below 35°C and add C and D one by one. Adjust the pH if necessary. Properties: Aspect: Light beige fluid cream Viscosity: (Brookfield LV, 25°C, spindle 3, 6rpm, 1min): 10 000 - 20 000 mPa.s pH: 4.70 – 5.30 Stability Tests: On lab batch, up to 1kg Up to 1 month at 50°C Up to 3 months at: Room Temperature, 4-8°C and 45°C Freeze thaw cycles (24h at 4°C and 24h at 45°C – 2 weeks) Centrifugation (3000 rpm, 20 min): Stable Vibrating table (400 rpm, 4h): Acceptable
Suppliers: 1. CP Kelco 2. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 3. Stearinerie Dubois 4. BASF 5. AAK 6. Kahlwax 7. Minasolve
MC ACTIVES
KOSTER KEUNEN GLORIOUS EVERYWHERE BODY BUTTER
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Deionized Water
INCI NAME Aqua
Bentonite Albagel BC Bentonite Glycerin
Glycerin
www.personalcaremagazine.com
MARINE & NATURAL CERAMIDE BODY CREAM PHASE INGREDIENTS
1/18 587/358/414 1 SPLR % W/W
2
72.2 2.0 3.0
A Water
Hydrolite 5 green Glycerin
Oceamides®
INCI NAME Water
Pentylene Glycol Glycerin
Cyclodextrin, Plankton extract, Ceramide NP
SPLR % W/W q.s. 100 3.00 1.00
1 2 0.50 March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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