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12 NEWS


Evolved By Nature pushes button on Activated Silk


US cosmetic actives maker Evolved By Nature has unveiled Activated Silk KDF-β, which it claims is a first-of-its-kind natural keratinocyte differentiation factor peptide. Unlike other peptides, Activated


Silk KDF-β uses only silk protein, water and concentrated salts. The skin care ingredient is


said to support natural processes to promote the formation of a hydrated epidermal layer, rapidly counteracting modern levels of UV exposure and oxidative stress. Activated Silk KDF-β also supports the natural upregulation and production of beneficial skin health proteins: involucrin for elasticity, filaggrin for hydration, and claudin for skin barrier integrity. “Unlike legacy ingredients, Activated Silk KDF-β was


suitable for daily use and sun exposure, and can be easily incorporated into any formulation,” it added. “Furthermore, in a head-to-


head clinical study, Activated Silk KDF-β displayed remarkable reduction in the appearance of damaged skin, in the appearance of symptoms associated with eczema prone skin, and in the reduction of the appearance of redness.” Activated Silk KDF-β is the


developed with the philosophy that an ingredient meant to promote youthful, healthy looking skin should not cause irritation or risk harm,” the company said. “As a result, it is proven safe for even the most sensitive skin,


fourth peptide to be launched on Evolved By Nature’s naturally derived and science-backed Activated Silk platform for skin care. “Traditional skin care ingredients


like hyaluronic acid, retinol, and Vitamin C were developed decades ago, making them an outdated defence to modern aggressors,” it said.


BASF unwraps encapsulation technology


BASF has taken the wraps off VitaGuard A, a solid lipid encapsulation technology to stabilize retinol in formulations. Retinol is a powerful anti-ageing


molecule yet it can also cause skin irritation and is prone to light and air degradation, making it difficult to be widely utilized by formulators. VitaGuard A was developed


using patented solid lipid particles, protecting retinol from degradation, limiting skin irritation and allowing better skin bioavailability for improved cosmetic efficacy. Several in vitro and ex vivo


studies conducted by BASF have shown VitaGuard A improves retinol stability in cosmetic formulations compared to non-encapsulated retinol, enhance skin bioavailability


and prevent retinol-induced irritation. Additionally, it clinically


improves the forehead wrinkles appearance, skin elasticity and skin tone evenness to connect with retinol’s attractive nature as an anti-ageing molecule. In a randomized, full-face,


double-blind clinical study on Chinese volunteers, VitaGuard A as a cream was evaluated at 2%


(equivalent to 0.1% retinol) on its effectiveness as an anti-ageing molecule compared to non- encapsulated retinol at 0.1%. The results concluded that it significantly showed an anti-wrinkle effect on forehead appearance compared to baseline (D0). After eight weeks, forehead


wrinkle volume was reduced by 37% (p<0.01). While assessing skin elasticity improvement, compared to baseline, VitaGuard A showed significant increase in skin elasticity versus D0 (+16%, p<0.001). Moreover, skin tone evenness


was notably improved, showing a variation of 15% compared to the baseline measurements obtained (p<0.001).


Lipoid Kosmetik taps exfoliation


complex The 2024 edition of the in-Lipoid Kosmetik has taken the wraps off Peeling Complex, a skin care ingredient that combines citric acid (AHA), gluconic acid (PHA), and amber acid (DCA) in a balanced, ready-to-use formula. The Swiss maker says effective


yet gentle formulation with an expanded exfoliation spectrum compared to single-acid peeling products. Chemical exfoliation has


become a popular skin care treatment, with consumers increasingly seeking solutions that provide visible results without irritating the skin. Peeling Complex effectively


addresses a wide range of skin concerns and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off formulations, ensuring optimal results for various skin types. The product is said to deliver


complementary and balanced exfoliation, improved skin texture and smoothness, enhancement of skin radiance and clear complexion, and youthful and healthy skin. “We are proud to launch


Peeling Complex, setting a new standard in exfoliation with its expanded spectrum and gentle strength,” said a spokeswoman. “It offers consumers an


effective yet skin-friendly solution for smooth, radiant, and youthful- looking skin,” she added.


Nikko Chemicals reveals 100% natural solubilizers range


Nikko Chemicals has taken the wraps off Nikkol Nikkosolve, a range of 100% natural solubilizers developed specifically for essential oils and fragrances. The Japanese maker says the launch is in response to savvy young consumers who research and understand cosmetic


PERSONAL CARE March 2025


ingredients. In Japanese, ‘toumei’, means


‘clear’ or ‘transparent’, and the two new products are said to represent this.


Both Nikkol Nikkosolve L and


Nikkol Nikkosolve M can solubilize formulations containing high concentrations of essential oils and fragrances, for example a body


mist or scalp refresher. Nikkol Nikkosolve L (INCI:


Polyglyceryl-10 laurate) can solubilize numerous fragrances, including jasmine oil, and rosemary oil, while Nikkol Nikkosolve M (INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 myristate) excels in solubilizing citrus fragrances, such as limonene. “The new generation of


consumers are becoming savvier in researching and understanding cosmetic ingredients,” a spokeswoman said. “Young consumers are choosing products that are naturally derived, having simpler, easy to understand formulas while also being effective,” she added.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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