94 SKIN CARE
*p<0.05 Figure 4: In vivo immediate, cumulative and long-lasting hydration results
on the delipidated skin explants to assess skin penetration using a fluorescent dye. This analysis is based on the principle that deeper dye penetration into the epidermis correlates with a weakened barrier function. The findings demonstrated a marked reduction in fluorescence intensity after six hours of delipidation, suggesting that the active ingredient enhances the skin’s resilience against external aggressions. These results highlight the ingredient’s
effectiveness in promoting skin barrier repair and resilience, as well as improving the integrity of the upper layers of the epidermis.
Moisturizing efficacy An in vivo study in a mixed panel with dry skin was carried out to evaluate the efficacy of the up-cycling ingredient in enhancing skin moisturization, improving barrier function, and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The results demonstrated immediate hydration (from 30 minutes), cumulative benefits (over 28 days), and long-lasting effects (up to 120 hours post-treatment). Prevention of dynamic water loss highlighted significant improvements in the skin’s barrier function. The active ingredient’s protective and
recovery effects following skin aggression were also assessed. Treatment resulted in a marked reduction in transepidermal water loss, redness caused by irritation, and microcirculation activity. Additionally, the recovery time for these
parameters was significantly shortened. When tested using a vasoactive chemical with irritant properties, the active ingredient delayed the onset of irritation, underscoring its role in enhancing skin resilience. Imaging studies further revealed improvements in the skin’s sensory properties, with treated skin appearing smoother, more moisturized, and comfortable.
New in vivo for smoothness results with mixed & multi-ethnic panel The original study evaluating the sensory properties of the ingredient on the skin was conducted using a frictiometer, a device that measures friction values on the skin with a Teflon disk. Higher frictiometer readings indicate smoother skin, as it is more resistant to friction. A recent follow-up study has further
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
confirmed that this active ingredient improves skin smoothness, using a more realistic and inclusive approach. This study was conducted on a diverse, multi-ethnic panel, ensuring that the results accurately reflect the varied textures and skin types found across global populations. The research employed an innovative technology—Touchy Finger®—which measures the quality of touch through direct skin contact. In collaboration with the renowned
Laboratory of Tribology and System Dynamics (LTDS) at the University of Lyon, researchers used a sensor-equipped ring worn on the index finger to capture the intricate vibration signals generated when the skin was touched. This method simulates the signals received
by skin mechanoreceptors—such as Merkel discs, Meissner corpuscles, Ruffini endings, and Pacinian corpuscles—which send sensory information to the brain, enabling the perception of touch.9
However, this process
captures the data objectively and quantitatively. The captured signals, measured in decibels
(dB), quantify the noise produced when the finger moves across the skin’s surface. Higher dB values indicate greater roughness, while lower dB values correspond to smoother skin, as smoothness is the opposite of roughness. The data was analyzed using an advanced AI
algorithm developed by the LTDS group, which quantified the improvements in smoothness observed on the volunteers’ skin. The results showed a consistent reduction
in vibration (noise in dB) across all tested time points, with the effects still noticeable five days after the end of the treatment.
Conclusion This well-known ingredient works from the inside out by activating the skin’s natural hydration and protection mechanisms, while simultaneously reinforcing the barrier function from the outside by stimulating lipid synthesis in the epidermis, particularly ceramide production. It provides immediate relief for dry skin and
ensures long-lasting hydration and smoothness for up to five days now tested in a mixed and multi-ethnic panel.
References 1. Bikle DD, Xie Z, Tu CL. Calcium regulation of keratinocyte differentiation. Expert Rev Endocrinol Metab. 2012; July; 7(4): 461–472
2. Rinnerthaler M, Streubel MK, Bischof J, Richter K. Skin aging, gene expression and calcium. Exp Gerontol. 2015; 68: 59-65
3. Wikramanayake TC, Stojadinovic O, Tomic- Canic M. Epidermal Differentiation in Barrier Maintenance and Wound Healing. Advances in Wound Care. 2014; 3 (3)
4. Brandner JM. Importance of Tight Junctions in Relation to Skin Barrier Function. Curr Probl Dermatol. Basel, Karger. 2016; 49, 27–37
5. Sapra B, Jindal M, Tiwary AK. Tight junctions in skin: new perspectives. Therapeutic Delivery. 2012; 3 (11)
6. Mangoni ML, McDermott AM, Zasloff M. Antimicrobial peptides and wound healing: biological and therapeutic considerations. Experimental Dermatology. 2016; 25, 167–173
7. Day RE et al. Human aquaporins: Regulators of transcellular water flow. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2013
8. Patel P, Heard LK, Chen X, Bollag WB. Aquaporins in the Skin. Adv Exp Med Biol. 2017; 969:173-191
Figure 5. Touchy Finger® methodology for measuring smoothness efficacy.
9. Fagiani R, Massi F, Chatelet E, Berthier Y, Akay A. Tactile perception by friction induced vibrations. Tribology International. 2011; Volume 44, Issue 10, pp 1100-1110
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
