64 SUN CARE
UV light
Uneven dispersion of UV filters
UV light
Even dispersion of UV filters with LignoBase
Uneven dispersion of UV filters Figure 2: UV protection of uniform film on skin surface
cover more skin surface should have better UV protection than those without this property, the theory is schematized in Figure 2. Correspondingly, this can affect the in vivo and
in vitro SPF value. Following the same theory, the more homogenous the UV filters spread on the skin, the better the UV performance the sunscreen will have. Therefore, it is necessary to add film former compounds in sunscreen formulations to increase its film-forming ability and as a result, the SPF value increases as well. Cellulose is one of the most important film- In the extraction process,
forming materials.22
cellulose cannot be completely separated from lignin. Therefore, the cellulose residue naturally attached to the polyphenol structure can give lignin extract a film forming capacity. The amount of cellulose residue depends on lignin’s extraction process.
In vivo SPF boosting of the non- nano lignin powder ingredient In in vivo SPF testing, it was demonstrated that varying concentrations of non-nano lignin powder ingredient with cool undertone (LignoBase Cool BE25) (ranging from 1% to 5%) can provide similar SPF-boosting effects in both chemical and physical sunscreen formulations. Specifically, in chemical sunscreens, the inclusion of the LignoBase Cool BE25 resulted in an increase of 11.7 SPF units, translating to an overall improvement of 61.26%. In the case of physical sunscreens, the
increase was even more pronounced, with an improvement of 12.6 SPF units, or 81.29%. These results on mineral-based formulations are particularly promising, as they allow formulators to achieve lighter colour formulations while utilizing lower concentrations of the non- nano lignin powder ingredient, all while still maintaining an effective SPF-boosting effect. The data is schematized in Figure 3. Further supporting the versatility of the non- nano lignin powder ingredient, another in vivo study indicated that a 3% concentration of the non-nano lignin powder ingredient with neutral undertone (LignoBase Neutral PS25) can lead to a notable SPF enhancement of up to 29%,
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
equating to an increase of 9.9 SPF units—from SPF 34 to SPF 43.9. The measurements and evaluations were
conducted by an accredited external institute, following the standards set forth in DIN EN ISO 24444, ensuring the reliability and validity of the results. Additionally, an in vivo measurement utilizing the High-Definition Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS) method demonstrated that the Lignin BE provides a significant boost in UVA protection factor (UVA-PF), achieving an enhancement of 34%. In in vitro SPF testing (Diffey Method/ Modified ISO 24443:2012),14
it was
demonstrated that the non-nano lignin powder ingredient could boost 35-75% SPF of mineral and chemical sunscreens and 72% UVA-PF of a mineral sunscreen.
These findings emphasize the potential
of the non-nano lignin powder ingredient to enhance SPF levels while also enabling formulators to achieve various colour profiles without compromising the SPF-boosting effect.
Conclusion In summary, Lignopure has created the world’s first lignin-based product line for cosmetics, pioneering this market. The mechanisms underlying the non-nano lignin powder ingredient’s SPF-boosting properties were discussed in the section ‘Mechanisms of the non-nano lignin powder’s SPF boosting effect’. By stabilizing common UV filters like BMDBM, enhancing UV absorption through J-aggregation, promoting light scattering effects, and improving film-forming capacities, the non-nano lignin powder ingredient not only enhances the photoprotective qualities of sunscreen products but also contributes to their overall formulation stability and skin compatibility. Moreover, sourced from upcycled paper and pulp and bioethanol industry natural byproducts, this non-nano lignin powder ingredient offers a natural and sustainable solution for cosmetic formulations. It aligns with the growing demand for eco- friendly and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic applications, positioning itself as a
valuable solution in the pursuit of effective sun protection without compromising environmental integrity. As formulators seek to create high-
performing, consumer-friendly sunscreens, the non-nano lignin powder ingredient stands out as a promising option that not only boosts SPF but also allows for creative flexibility in natural product formulation, meeting the needs of both manufacturers and consumers alike.
References 1. Widsten P. Lignin-based sunscreens-state- of-the-art, Prospects and challenges. Cosmetics. 2020
2. Lyons AB, Trullas C, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2021; 84(5), 1393–1397
3. Wang PW, Hung YC, Lin TY, Fang JY, Yang PM, Chen MH, Pan TL. Comparison of the biological impact of UVA and UVB upon the skin with functional proteomics and immunohistochemistry. Antioxidants. 2019; 8, 569.
4. de Gruijl FR. Photocarcinogenesis: UVA vs UVB. Methods in Enzymology. 2000; 319, 359–366.
5. Cadet J, Berger M, Douki T, Morin B, Raoul S, Ravanat JL, Spinelli S. Effects of UV and visible radiation on DNA-final base damage. Biological Chemistry. 1997; 378(11), 1275–1286
6. Kockler J, Oelgemöller M, Robertson S, Glass B. Photostability of sunscreens. Journal of photochemistry and photobiology C: Photochemistry reviews. 2012; 13. 91–110
7. Kim N, Kim Y, Yun JM, Jeong SK, Lee S, Lee B, Shim J. Surface coating of titanium dioxide nanoparticles with a polymerizable chelating agent and its physicochemical property. ACS Omega. 2023; 8
8. Acharya S, Hu Y, Moussa H, Abidi N. Preparation and characterization of transparent cellulose films using an improved cellulose dissolution process. Journal of Applied Polymer Science. 2017; 44871 9. Katahira R, Elder TJ, Beckham GT. A brief
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Film forming capability of LignoBase boosts SPF with even dispersion of UV filters
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