98 TEXTURES
TABLE 3: LIGHT ZEN MILK. Phase Ingredients
A Demin. Water Glycerin
B
Cosphaderm Pentiol Natural GreenGard PA3 BergaMuls ET1
BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Evening Primrose Oil BergaCare FG L11 Cosphaderm X34
C Defensil D Citric Acid (25% aq.)
INCI Aqua Glycerin Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol Beta-Glucan, Pectin
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Oenothera Biennis Oil
Undecane, Tridecane, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate Xanthan Gum
Cosphaderm T-70 NON GMO ECO Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Octyldodecanol, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Tocopherol
BergaCare AquaLipids Bisabolol AR Aqua, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Glycerin, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate, Bisabolol, Pentylene Glycol, Phytosterols, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Aqua, Citric Acid 1
2 3 1 1
4 1
2 2
5 1
Procedure: Weigh in all materials from phase A and start stirring. Weigh in phase B without the fibre blend and heat both phases to 65°C. When phase B is hot, add fibre blend (beta-glucan, pectin) and mix both phases while stirring and homogenize for 30 sec. at 7000 rpm. Cool to below 40°C, adjust pH and add phase C. Properties: pH = 5.8; Viscosity (24 h, Brookfield, 20 rpm) = 6000 mPas. Internal Ref.: TS-02.05-0724. Challenge Test DIN EN ISO 11930 passed.
Suppliers: 1. Berg+Schmidt 2. Cosphatec 3. GreenLine 4. Henry Lamotte 5. Rahn
TABLE 4: SILKY UNDERWEAR Phase Ingredients A
Demin. Water
Cosphaderm Pentiol Natural
B
Cosphaderm T-70 non GMO Eco
B1
C D
BergaCare SB BergaMuls ET1
Sodium Hydroxide (25% aq.)
INCI Aqua Pentylene Glycol
BergaCare FG M12 Coco Caprylate / Caprate, Dodecane, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil BergaCare GS 40 Glyceryl Stearate
Tocopherol, Helinathus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Beta-Glucan, Pectin Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide Extrapone Marigold Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Glucose 3
Supplier % w/w up to 100
1
2 2
1
2 2
5.00 8.00
3.00 0.50 9.00
3.00
Adjust pH 1.00
Procedure: Combine phase A and heat to 75°C. Combine all materials of phase B and heat to 75°C until homogenous. Add BergaCare SB to phase B, wait until it is molten, then add the fibre blend (beta-glucan, pectin) and disperse. Add phase B/B1 to A while stirring and homogenize for 30 seconds at 7000 rpm. Cool to below 40°C, adjust pH and add phase D. Properties: pH = 5.3. Viscosity (24 h, Brookfield, 20 rpm) = 9800 mPas. Internal Ref.: Ach-010-BSC. Challenge Test
Ph.Eur. 5.01.03 passed (Criteria B)
Suppliers: 1. Cosphatec 2. Berg+Schmidt 3. Symrise
TABLE 5: QUENCH YOUR THIRST CREAM-IN-SERUM Phase Ingredients A
INCI
Demin. Water BergaMuls ET1
Hyaluronic Acid high MW
Hyaluronic Acid low MW
Cosphaderm Pentiol Natural
B
C D
BergaCare AquaLipids Melon BK
Cotton Lotus
Sodium Hydroxide (25% aq.)
Aqua
Beta-Glucan, Pectin Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolized Sodium Hyaluronate D-Panthenol 75% Panthenol Pentylene Glycol
Aqua, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Juice, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate, Pentylene Glycol, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Citric Acid
Parfum Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide
Supplier % w/w up to 100
1
2 2
2 3
1
4 2
4.00 0.25
0.25 0.50 5.00
5.00 0.10 Adjust pH
Procedure: Phase A: Disperse the fibre blend (beta-glucan, pectin) in pentylene glycol. Then add hyaluronic acids and D-Panthenol. Finally, add water while stirring and heat to 50°C until a homogeneous gel has been obtained. Cool to below 40°C and add phase B while stirring. Add perfume and adjust pH. Homogenize for 30 sec. at 7500rpm. Properties: pH = 5.6 Viscosity (24 h, Brookfield, 20 rpm) = 22.000 mPas. Internal Ref.: AqLi Dry-002-ELA. Challenge Test DIN EN ISO 11930 passed (Criteria A+B).
Suppliers: 1. Berg + Schmidt 2. Various 3. Cosphatec 4. Alexmo
equipment and production conditions. ■ Dispersing the product: Both blends should be dispersed in the oil phase prior to the emulsification step, as this allows for quicker homogeneous distribution. ■ Emulsification process: While the blend based on beta-glucan and pectin gives the best results (in terms of viscosity and long-term stability) when homogenized for a short time (7000-9500 rpm for 30-60 seconds), the blend based on cellulose, guar, and beta-glucan works best when using low shear rates for a prolonged time (propeller stirrer at 1500-1900 rpm for 10-20 min), as the fibre mix needs to be given sufficient time to orient itself at the oil-water interface and for the hydrocolloids and soluble fibres to swell in the water phase. ■ Thickening options: Use 4% of fibre mix 1 in water-based (oil-free) formulations to create a semitransparent gel. The viscosity at 3% differs significantly between the two (1340 mPas for fibre mix 1 versus 14800 mPas for fibre mix 2). ■ Preservation options: Formulations can be preserved with natural antimicrobials using 5% pentylene glycol or a combination of 2% pentylene glycol with 1% Cosphaderm® Dicapo Natural (caprylyl glycol, propanediol, glyceryl caprylate).
Versatile formulation concepts with fibre-based Pickering emulsifiers The following section exemplifies the potential of plant-based emulsifiers to create versatile and sustainable formulations for the cosmetic industry. Formulators can achieve a variety of textures, from light lotions to rich creams, in cold or hot process, with or without co-emulsifiers.
Formulating with fibre blend 1 Light Zen Milk Emulsifier-free, silky and smooth, soothing formulation which is gentle to the skin barrier. The fibre blend (2% use level) acts as a single emulsifier, stabilizing the 8% oil phase with 0.1% xanthan gum as additional stabilizing aid.
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Supplier % w/w
up to 100 5.00 5.00 0.20 2.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 0.10 0.20
0.50 5.00 Adjust pH
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