58 EXOSOMES Heal acne scars Reduce allergic inflammation
Figure 4: Results from volunteer studies demonstrating the efficacy of milk-derived exosomes. The side-by-side images show a marked reduction in acne scar visibility after four weekly in-clinic procedures using milk exosomes (1.2×10^10 exosomes per procedure) (left). Additionally, the figure illustrates in-home treatment outcomes, with a significant reduction in redness from an allergic skin rash following the application of milk exosomes (1×10 7 per use)
in skin care by offering robust antioxidant protection and cellular rejuvenation. These vesicles deliver a rich array of secondary metabolites, including quercetin and kaempferol, which exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties.
In vitro efficacy of Exolitus Raspberry exosomes Raspberry exosomes safeguard skin cells from oxidative damage and bacterial toxins, demonstrating significant restoration of cellular viability in both hydrogen peroxide and bacterial lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated skin cell models. This means they could help reduce skin redness, improve resilience to environmental stressors, and promote a healthier, more youthful complexion when included in skin care formulations.
In vivo efficacy: ■ Raspberry exosome provide an immediate
reduction in rosacea-related redness, calming and soothing irritated skin as reported by case studies. By modulating inflammation, protecting
against oxidative damage, and recovering mitochondrial homeostasis, plant- exosomes open new pathways for skin care advancements. When combined, pure exosomes from various sources can also be blended to create proprietary formulations that holistically address multiple skin concerns in a comprehensive and synergistic manner.
Recognizing genuine exosome- based products The exosome cosmetics industry is increasingly compromised by unsubstantiated claims and misleading marketing. Many products exploit the term ‘exosomes’ without providing scientific backing or verifying efficacy. This lack of transparency not only erodes
consumer trust but also hinders the potential of legitimate exosome-based solutions. For instance, some formulations claim high exosome content but fail to meet essential quality and concentration standards, undermining their effectiveness. Consumers and industry professionals
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
must navigate a crowded market filled with ambiguities and red flags. To counteract this, rigorous evaluation of product authenticity and adherence to scientific benchmarks is essential. The following is a list of key markers to
look for when choosing products or sourcing exosome-based ingredients.
1. Source and processing transparency Legitimate products disclose the origin of their exosomes, whether plant-derived or animal-derived, providing transparency to consumers. Plant-derived exosomes are particularly noteworthy for their sustainability and functional benefits, while animal-derived exosomes, such as those from milk, offer different bioactive properties that can resemble stem-cell-derived benefits. Products ambiguously labelled or claiming
human stem cell origins warrant scepticism, as such claims are often misleading and could violate regulatory guidelines. Understanding the source of exosomes helps consumers make informed decisions while aligning with ethical and environmental values.
2. Particle analysis Credible formulations quantify exosome concentration (for instance 100 billion particles per millilitre (≥1E+11 particles/mL)). These concentrations must be supported by advanced characterization techniques such as Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA), which measures particle size and concentration, and Cryo-TEM imaging, which verifies structural integrity and bioactive cargo (Figure 5). By shining a laser through the sample, NTA
tracks particle movement, allowing scientists to precisely measure their size and concentration. To interpret the graph, focus on whether there is a sharp peak within the 50-200 nm range, which indicates a well-defined population of exosomes. Plant exosomes are more variable in size than animal ones, and their samples have particles ranging from below 50nm to even above 500 nm producing a wider peak. Also, check if the peak height reflects a high enough concentration to ensure the product’s potency and effectiveness.
In the Cryo-TEM images you should be
looking for a visible bilayer membrane and inner void volume where bioactive cargo is stored. The double membrane is essential; it shields the valuable cargo inside (proteins, lipids, and RNA) responsible for delivering nourishing benefits to the skin, making exosomes a natural powerhouse in skin care. These methods set by MISEV2023 guidelines
provide a framework for standardizing research and ensuring scientific rigour in the study of exosomes and extracellular vesicles not only in cosmetics but also in fields of stem cell technologies, diagnostics and cancer.4
3.Exosome markers: For milk-derived or other animal-based exosomes, representative biomarker analysis is essential and should be issued by the supplier. This includes the presence of key surface markers like CD63, CD9, and CD81, which confirm the identity and integrity of exosomes. Such analyses add an extra layer of validation, ensuring the product’s authenticity and effectiveness. This requirement aligns with the guidelines established by the MISEV guidelines.4 In contrast, plant-derived exosomes do
not carry these markers, as they are specific to animal and human exosomes. Furthermore, there are currently no
approved universal markers for plant-derived exosomes, making any claims suggesting the presence of CD63, CD9, or CD81 in plant formulations misleading and scientifically inaccurate. The efficacy of plant exosomes should instead be evaluated based on their unique bioactive cargo, such as secondary metabolites and RNA content.
4. Effective dosage An effective cosmetic product contains at least 10 million exosomes (1x10 7 particles) per application. This ensures that enough exosomes are present to interact with skin cells effectively, improving skin elasticity, hydration, and overall health.
5. Transparency in trademarked ingredients Trademarked ingredients often obscure the
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