16 INTERVIEW Tim Probert – Editor, Personal Care Global
Ahead of the inaugural Testing & Regulation Forum at in-cosmetics Global on 10 April in Amsterdam, editor Tim Probert caught up with four participants - Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs; Mike Sohn, general manager of REACH24H Korea; Irene Cotogni, cosmetic product specialist at Neotron; and Elisa Esteve, product safety & regulatory affairs manager at Cosmeservice – to explore the key trends
Tim Probert (TP): What are the key trends driving cosmetic testing? Irene Cotogni (IC): Longevity and performance are increasingly important as consumers expect
products that deliver tangible and lasting results. This has led brands to focus on assuring and testing for long-term efficacy. However, it’s not just about
erasing the signs of ageing, but embracing a pro-ageing concept that emphasises healthy ageing and becoming old in a positive way. Another significant trend is anti-pollution, driven by growing awareness of environmental impacts. Products targeting pollutants, UV and oxidative stress are becoming more prevalent because pollution contributes to inflammation, which accelerates unhealthy ageing
Anne Charpentier (AC): A major influence on the testing market is the cultural patterns of beauty that shape
consumer expectations worldwide. The Korean beauty market, as a recent example, has exerted significant soft power, setting global trends with beauty routines focused on an ultra-smooth face and a porcelain-like complexion. Additionally, the growing senior
demographic is driving demand for products that promise longevity and ‘reverse-ageing’ effects – often seen as the holy grail for miraculous skin results. In Brazil, climate change
directly impacts the consumption of sunscreen and antiperspirant
PERSONAL CARE March 2025
products, with increasingly long and frequent heatwaves. Similarly, in megacities like Delhi, endemic pollution is pushing the development of products that protect and cleanse the skin from environmental contaminants.
TP: What are the key considerations in cosmetics regulation?
Elisa Esteve (EE): The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving and one of the main challenges is keeping up with
innovations in formulations, ingredients and technologies while ensuring consumer safety and compliance. Regulatory frameworks can often lag behind scientific advancements, creating gaps that need to be addressed promptly. Additionally, the lack of harmonisation between regulatory requirements in different regions adds complexity, especially for global brands trying to navigate these differences. Emerging concerns, such as the regulation of nanomaterials, endocrine disruptors and environmental impact, also present significant hurdles. Mike Sohn (MS): Regulatory frameworks vary widely across regions, and since 2020, changes
have accelerated globally. China implemented CSAR, followed by the US with MoCRA. The EU is introducing new sustainability hurdles, such as environmental factors. Taiwan has implemented a
INTERVIEW
Testing times
new regulatory system, Korea is in preparation of new safety measures, while Japan and the ASEAN region are quietly showing movements. For companies operating
internationally, staying updated and compliant with these diverse requirements, such as labelling standards and language barriers, is increasingly challenging. Heightened consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products is also driving stricter standards on ingredient safety, environmental impact and product claims.
TP: What are the latest testing solutions and innovations? AC: Technological innovations in testing are driving the market forward, particularly in preclinical evaluations conducted in vitro or ex vivo. Innovations include advanced test supports like organ- on-chip models with neurons, 3D skin models (bioprinted or not) with capillary vessels and cutting- edge analysis methods. Beyond traditional ELISAs
dosages, immunochemistry and imaging, genomic and omics analyses are gaining traction. These methods monitor cellular changes in DNA, proteins and metabolites involved in specific mechanisms of action, using technologies like qPCR and specialised bioinformatics databases for skin studies. New biomarkers continue
to emerge, revealing metabolic activities related to immunity, ageing, inflammation and oxidation. In silico tests are also progressing rapidly, leveraging bioinformatics systems to evaluate substances’ intrinsic properties and predict their effects. Skin biometrology is also
advancing with technologies like coupled LC/OCT systems, enabling in vivo quantification and visualisation without the need for biopsies. AI-powered data algorithms are significantly influencing testing processes, while connected diagnostic tools are evolving rapidly, allowing consumers to conduct in-situ skin
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