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MARINE INGREDIENTS


Harnessing the power of blue biotechnology


Oriane Le Roux, Claire Guidici - Solabia


The oceans cover more than 70% of the planet and are home to an immense biodiversity of unique organisms such as macroalgae, microalgae or marine bacteria producing enzymes, or peptides, offering abundant resources. However, knowledge of the marine world


is still very limited, with only 20% to 30% of existing species identified.1,2


Over the last few


years, advances in blue biotechnology have significantly bridged the gap, and discoveries are multiplying. According to the OECE, blue biotechnology is the application of science and technology to living aquatic organisms to produce knowledge, goods, and services. The exploration and development of this marine biodiversity has a wide range of applications in fields such as energy, environment, health, nutrition, and even cosmetics. Marine biotechnology is a fast-growing


field of expertise that appears to be a pivotal lever for the future. As a green, non-polluting, and eco-responsible production method, Blue Biotechnology offers innovative and sustainable solutions to numerous environmental and industrial challenges. Indeed, blue biotechnology enables


the extraction of unique, marine-exclusive molecules derived from marine environments. These marine-derived ingredients offer enhanced efficacy, as they are rich in nutrients and contain powerful bioactive compounds that help them withstand environmental stress. Additionally, blue biotechnology supports


sustainability by avoiding depletion of natural populations and eliminating competition for land resources. Among marine resources, algae are particularly promising due to their unique properties and vast potential for use.


Skin-algae analogy Macroalgae share remarkable similarities with skin, particularly in their biological structures. This structural compatibility enables optimal diffusion and enhances the body’s tolerance to marine active ingredients. The epidermis can readily assimilate the beneficial properties of seaweed, making it a valuable focus for the cosmetics industry. Moreover, algae possess the unique ability


to withstand stresses like those experienced by the skin, often in more extreme conditions: regular dehydration (due to tide fluctuations), UV radiation exposure, thermal stress (from


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varying air and water temperature), oxidation and seasonal changes. To survive, algae have developed highly sophisticated resistance mechanisms that can be harnessed to protect and rejuvenate the skin.3


Codium fragile – marine treasures for skin Seaweeds can be divided into three major classes based on their pigmentation: Chlorophyceae (green algae), Phaeophyceae (brown algae) and Rhodophyceae (red algae). Among them, green algae are the largest group, comprising both microscopic cells and large, membranous, tubular, bushy plants.4 They are abundant sources of bioactive


compounds including green seaweed polysaccharides, amino acids, fatty acids, minerals, chlorophyll, and vitamins. They offer numerous health and skin benefits, such as antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.4,5 Codium fragile (Codium fragile subsp.


Fragile) is a green alga belonging to the Codiaceae family, which includes the entire Codium genus. It owes its name to its dark green colour and soft, felt-like texture. Codium fragile is a 30cm long spongy


seaweed, in the shape of a small bush with cylindrical branches. This seaweed thrives on


hard substrates in a wide range of habitats, including rocky shores and cobbles. Widely distributed throughout the world’s


seas, except for the polar regions, Codium fragile is a highly resistant seaweed, tolerating a wide range of temperatures and salinities. All these factors contribute to the exceptional cosmetic benefits offered by Codium fragile. Codium fragile is rich in minerals and amino acids, but it is mainly made up of rare and specific molecules recognized for their bioactive potential applied to cosmetics, to restore luminous skin with a specific action on the eye contour area. This specie of green alga has a unique cell


wall architecture, containing molecules of interest which are sulfated arabinogalactans (sulfated polysaccharides) mainly composed of galactose, arabinose, xylose, rhamnose, uronic acid and sulfated groups.3 Those heteropolysaccharides have


several functions in cell walls in the algae. They have a structure divided into two parts: a skeletal phase made from non-soluble polysaccharides, and a matrix phase with more hydro soluble polysaccharides in the matrix. They are obtained by aqueous extraction, concentration, and purification of Codium fragile, to select low molecular weight sulfated polysaccharides.


March 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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