SUN CARE
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UV light UV light
UV filter particles
LignoBase particles act along with UV filters
Low light scattering results in higher UV light contact with skin
Figure 1: Boosting of UV performance through increase of optical path length adapted from19 Despite many existing research and
developments, the main area of lignin’s application is still petroleum exploration or bio-fuel production, in which lignin is used as surfactant to enhance the efficacy of oil recovery or is burned to generate heat and power, respectively. Therefore, lignin remains underutilized.10,11 Recently, growing attention has focused on lignin as a new safer and biodegradable raw material for use as an SPF booster in sunscreen products. Due to its properties, the possibility of lignin to reduce the usage of common synthetic ingredients in cosmetic products is highly promising.12,13
However, raw lignin is unfit for
cosmetic applications. In this context, Lignopure identified lignin’s
potential in the cosmetic world and has developed its own patented particle technology to process lignin, making it suitable for cosmetic applications and maximizing its functionality. Thus, the non- nano lignin powder ingredient was born. It is the first lignin-based ingredient line
specifically designed for multifunctional use in cosmetic formulations. Produced from clean, sustainably sourced plants, each ingredient in the line is developed using Lignopure’s patented particle technology. It includes three variants named by its undertone: the non-nano lignin powder ingredient with cool undertone (LignoBase Cool BE25), the non-nano lignin powder ingredient with neutral undertone (LignoBase Neutral PS25) and the non-nano lignin powder ingredient with warm undertone (LignoBase Warm WS25). The unique polyphenolic molecular structure
of each non-nano lignin powder ingredient offers key benefits, including the ability to boost SPF, skin protection against free radicals and antioxidant activity within formulations. The following sector will focus on their SPF-boosting capabilities.
Mechanisms of the non-nano lignin powder’s SPF boosting effect After demonstrating the SPF-boosting properties of lignin, many questions arise regarding the mechanisms behind its
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High light scattering results in lower UV light contact with skin
effectiveness. Based on lignin’s unique chemical and physical characteristics, we can identify four key mechanisms that may explain how it enhances SPF.
1. Photostabilization of BMDBM BMDBM (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) is a widely used UVA filter in sunscreen formulations, known for its ability to absorb UVA radiation effectively. However, one significant drawback of BMDBM is its instability when exposed to UV light. With prolonged exposure to sunlight,
BMDBM can undergo a transformation into a less effective form known as the keto form. This transformation is detrimental as it significantly reduces the compound’s ability to protect the skin from harmful UVA rays, which are known to contribute to skin damage and photoageing.15 Moreover, this conversion process can lead to
the formation of harmful byproducts, particularly when the excited form of BMDBM interacts with molecular oxygen present in the environment. This interaction generates singlet oxygen, a reactive oxygen species that can cause oxidative stress and further damage skin cells. The presence of singlet oxygen poses an additional threat because it can react with the normal enol form of BMDBM, further diminishing its UVA absorbance and protective efficacy. As a result, the degradation of BMDBM not only compromises its effectiveness as a UV filter but also increases the risk of skin damage from prolonged sun exposure.15,16 One way to protect BMDBM from this
degradation is to add a quencher, which can absorb the energy from the excited form and help prevent its breakdown. However, this quencher itself can become excited and degrade, potentially leading to harmful products as well. Lignin, a complex phenolic polymer,
contains a variety of chemical functional groups, such as phenolic hydroxyl, carboxylic, carbonyl, and methoxyl groups, which contribute to its powerful antioxidant properties.23
These
functional groups enable lignin to effectively neutralize harmful singlet oxygen produced
during the degradation process, making it a promising candidate for enhancing the stability of BMDBM and therefore enhancing the filter’s protective properties.
2. Synergetic effect between lignin and UV filters J-aggregation refers to the stacking of aromatic rings found in lignin and UV filters, e.g. OMC (octyl methoxycinnamate). This interaction occurs due to the attractive forces between the electron-rich and electron-deficient regions of the aromatic molecules. When these rings stack together, they form larger structures that can alter how the material absorbs UV light. Specifically, this aggregation reduces the
energy needed for the π-π* transition (the process by which the material absorbs UV light) and creates a larger conjugated structure. As a result, the UV absorption spectrum of
the material shifts toward longer wavelengths, a phenomenon known as spectral redshift. This broadening of the UV absorption spectrum means that the materials can absorb a wider range of UV radiation, enhancing the overall effectiveness of the sunscreen.17,18
3. Light scattering effect The use of light-scattering particles to boost UV protection in sunscreens is a well-known approach, and Lignopure’s innovative micron- sized lignin particles excel in this area. The non-nano lignin particles effectively scatter light, and when incorporated into sunscreens, its scattering effect increases the optical path length of UV radiation, ensuring that the light is more likely to interact with dissolved or dispersed UV filter molecules before reaching the skin, thereby enhancing the UV protection. The process is illustrated in Figure 1.19, 20
4. Film forming capacity The UV protection of sunscreen products depends on not only the intrinsic absorption properties of the UV filter system, but also the distribution of the sunscreen products when they are topically applied on skin.19,21
Understandably,
skin surface is uneven, sunscreen products which can form film with uniform thickness to
March 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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