94 SKIN MICROBIOME
450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Initial Figure 5: Microbial diversity
the aerobic microbiome. C. acnes and S. epidermidis thrive in the new environment. For all the others it is pure hell as they lose their ability to eat, to reproduce, and eventually to survive. They need oxygen, of which they are now deprived. They are not only starving but also suffocating. So, the worst thing about acne is not that
the villains are arising and thriving, but that the self-regulating mechanism of a healthy microbiome is now totally lost. The other microbial members that normally control the growth of C. acnes can not regulate now as they have been caught by surprise by the eruption of sebum. If only they could get a little push. If they could find superfood that could weaponize them again against all the villains that are now ruling the skin. Merely killing does not help the protective
microbiome at all. Actually, the classic killing approach pushes even the regulating microbiome further away from a permanent and sustainable solution.
A dedicated prebiotic tested under leave-on conditions The superfood for the skin microbiome could be prebiotics. Indeed, prebiotics are described to support a healthy microbiome, but what about the acne microbiome where the protective members are suffering or lost their way and became pathogenic? Several inulin types have been tested as a
prebiotic for the acne microbiome. Significant effects were only obtained with a proprietary enzymatically-purified inulin (EPI). EPI has been tested in a double-blind study. 20 persons with acne-prone skin were treated once a day for 28 days with a cream (Table 1) containing 2% EPI. The results were compared to a placebo. The skin microbiome was profiled before the first application and two days after the last application. The skin microbiome before the first application is the acne microbiome. The profiling was performed with a metagenomic analysis. This kind of analysis allows us to determine
exactly the microbial composition of the skin microbiome. Both bacteria and fungi were determined. What makes the metagenomic study particularly interesting is that the potential gene expressions can be determined. In this way, it can be analysed precisely which microorganisms are communicating and working together and to what extent.
PERSONAL CARE September 2023 Placebo 2% EPI
0.3 0.2 0.1 0
-0.1 -0.2 -0.3 -0.4 -0.5
Placebo Figure 6: Possible gene expression
TABLE 1: FORMULATIONS - TEST PRODUCT AND PLACEBO Placebo (w/w%)
Water
Sucrathix VX Xanthan Gum preBIULIN C90 Sodium anisate Inutec SL1
Glyceryl Strearate Cetearyl alcohol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate NaOH
Salicylic acid EPI
Qs 1.5 0.1 0.1
0.3 0.4 2 2 4
pH=5.0-5.5 2 -
Result 1: Microbial communication in acne-prone skin The most spectacular results of this study are the networks built between the members of the skin microbiota. The communication network of the initial acne-prone skin is presented in Figure 2A. Each dot represents a microorganism, while the lines represent the collaboration or communication between two microorganisms. Only one member of the protective
skin microbiome (M. luteus) is part of this communication network. None of the other protective members communicates. There is no real communication network. All
Test cream (w/w%) Qs 1.5 0.1 0.1
0.3 0.4 2 2 4
pH=5.0-5.5 2 2
microorganisms are forming small groups. There is no microbial community that can regulate and protect. It looks like everyone is on his own. The main protectors such as C. acnes,
S. epidermidis, and Corynebacteria are not working together. The skin microbiome is completely out of balance. The amount of communication lines is 300 (Figure 3) When the acne-prone skin is treated
for 28 days with a placebo (containing 2% salicylic acid), only a timid improvement of collaboration between the microorganisms is observed (Figure 2B). Slightly more protective microorganisms are collaborating.
2% EPI
Figure 7: Volunteer before and after treatment using 2% EPI for 28 days
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Number of speciess
Negative gene expression C. acnes
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