FORMULATING FOR WELLNESS
during and after use. Consumers have come to expect certain attributes from each stage of the application process, and these have an invaluable impact on the perception of quality and efficacy. For example, a light, cooling serum could
stimulate feelings of freshness and hydration, or a thick body butter may convey luxury and pampering. These feelings of instant effect can engage consumers to establish continued use and drive repurchase. However, it is important to note that the
descriptive language used and the sensory attributes that appeal to consumers, may vary across different demographics. This can make navigating the sensory space as a formulator a challenging task. Croda’s SenStories™ selector tool saves
formulators valuable time by suggesting oil-in- water emulsifiers which will give the desired sensory based on the semantics inputted (i.e. consumer language descriptors such as hydrating, fresh and fluid). This allows them to create products with targeted sensories that align with consumer expectations.
Appearance Colour is a powerful tool that can be used to enhance the wellness experience, connecting physically and mentally with our body and mind.10
Most cosmetic formulations are
colourless solutions or white/cream emulsions which are considered to be simple, clean and fresh.
white has a historical association with healing and spirituality.10
This lends itself to the theme of wellness as However, pastel shades such as light
lavender are also a popular choice for wellness products because of their low saturation level which evoke a sense of rest and calm. However, as well as being simple and
calming, wellness products include those designed to brighten our day and boost our mood, so feel free to experiment with bright colour to add an element of fun into your formulations. For example, orange is usually connected to joy and creativity. WGSN predict that despite it being a polarising colour, orange will become an inclusive, youth-led wellness hue.10
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Figure 4: Croda’s SenStories website tool helps formulators to discover suitable oil-in-water emulsifier system recommendations, for the development of skin care formulations with targeted sensories
Formulations with novel textures also
influence the user experience and incite playfulness and fun. Examples of those formulated at Croda include a cleansing sand, transformative gel-oil-milk cleanser and melting pearls for the hair and scalp.
Effect on body and mind (look good, feel good) A quick spritz of a soothing body mist only takes a second but allows you to take a moment for yourself away from your busy schedule to refresh and reset. The formulation has a cooling sensation and actives to calm your skin whilst the fragrance boosts your mood, making you look good and feel good at the same time. It could be used any time of day or night for a wellness boost and bitesize ‘me-moment’. When formulating, ask yourself: what
problem/s are you trying to solve? How can using the product improve someone’s wellness? For example, dandruff and greasy roots, two big causes of negative emotional and mental wellness, can be tackled by a product such as a
pre-shower exfoliating scalp cream. Some of the ingredients within the
formulation may be added to gently exfoliate and cleanse the scalp, and leave the skin smooth, fresh, and radiant, while other ingredients work to bring vitality, energy and soothing properties. This combination will help to reduce visible dandruff and grease, improving hair aesthetics and making the consumer feel good.
Naturality/sustainability All ingredient and formulation claims must be validated and backed up by data, which is made available to the customer/consumer. Formulations with a high ISO16128 natural origin content and/or natural certifications such as COSMOS or NATRUE are increasingly desired by consumers as well as biodegradable formulations and a minimal INCI list. Ingredient suppliers need to be transparent about the sourcing and sustainability of their ingredients. Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable and want to understand the purpose of each ingredient in the formulation and where it came from. When formulating, a cold process (no heat)
Figure 5: Shape and play cleansing sand. This bright, playful cleansing sand formulation has a unique transformative texture and has been designed for use on the face or body. On the addition of water, the sand which has a mild exfoliating action, melts into a milky lotion to gently cleanse the skin and leave a soft, smooth feel
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method can save energy and reduce the carbon footprint of the formulation. Where ingredients require heating, only heating to the minimum temperature required for the shortest amount of time is beneficial. The sustainability of the formulation can also be increased by reducing water usage. This can be achieved by creating anhydrous formulations, concentrated/reduced water products or no-rinse formulations. Alongside the ingredients and method, the sustainability of the packaging needs to be considered. Can you make a solid format which does not require packaging? Is your packaging recyclable and/or made from recycled materials? Can you offer refills instead of purchasing a new pack each time? Knowing that the ingredients and packaging used in their beauty routine has minimal
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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