UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
products of other industries. We do not see logistics as a difficult barrier to overcome, but personal care ingredient manufacturers need to establish a good partnership with waste producers. Firstly, to produce our upcycled Raspberry
NECTA from the waste of raspberry juice production, the supply chain is very simple: all that is needed is a good partnership with a juice producer. If they are located nearby, even better. They take care of sourcing all those raspberries they need to make their juice throughout the year, and ingredient manufacturers take from this continual waste stream of just one or a few local suppliers. The volume of food or beverages produced
daily is vast compared to that of the resources needed to make personal care raw materials. There is a level of security built into upcycled supply chains as the quantity of certain waste streams outweighs the demand to produce a cosmetic active or functional ingredient. However, there is the issue of microbiology.
If you are a food manufacturer and your raspberry pomace is waste you may not look after it because you are going to throw it away or use it for biogas production, so it is of little or no value. Yet saving waste from being turned
into biogas is better in terms of circular sustainability. When looking at the waste hierarchy (Figure 2), waste recovery (turning waste into energy) is ranked lower compared to reusing materials, such as upcycling them.
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Figure 2: Hierarchy of waste management One of the hardest parts of the development
process is to find partners who see that waste as valuable, so they respect it, look after it and sell it as a resource. Currently food waste around the world is estimated at US$2.6 trillion in economic, environmental, and social costs. This is almost as much as the whole of
France’s GDP.8 If we can turn the perception of that waste from worthless into something beneficial with a monetary value, producers are more motivated to respect it and sell it on.
What is still lacking for success It is relatively easy to make extracts from upcycled materials but there is a gap in the market. High performing upcycled functionals are hard to come by. Right now, we can see an increase in upcycled cosmetic actives, but the base of a formula is also needed in a sustainable circular form. We have a call to action to the industry: we need these technologies. As previously discussed, some organisations
www.personalcaremagazine.com
September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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