SKIN MICROBIOME
■ Malassezia globosa ■ Malassezia restricta
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t = 0 28 0.1% Piroctone Olamine 0 Figure 1: Activity on fungal load and composition
environment and can start to colonize the skin. Again, this problem starts with the skin’s inability to maintain a beneficial environment for the healthy core epidermal skin microbiome.
Skin rules Circling back to our starting point, it is feasible to get out of this cul-de-sac we currently find ourselves in by refocusing on the relationship between the skin and the skin microbiome with a different point of view: healthy skin has healthy microbiota. As outlined above, it clearly seems that in the
relation between the skin and its microbiome, the entity which provides the environment for the skin microbiome, i.e. the skin, is ‘leading.’ Skin that functions healthily, does not produce too much sebum and shows a well-functioning epidermal renewal process, by definition shows a healthy skin microbiome that is beneficial for our skin. Indeed, our skin and its microbiome live in symbiosis with each other. This article argues that it is time for
‘microbiome skincare’ to largely refocus back on the skin. Supporting skin with its epidermal self-renewal process as effectively as possible, improving and/or maintaining its optimum functionality, naturally will benefit the healthy epidermal skin microbiome. A similar approach can be chosen for the follicular microbiome. Keeping sebum production in check will
play a large part in balancing acne-prone skin. Admittedly, acne-prone skin could do with some additional support in managing inflammation, for instance.
Two examples CLR’s ProRenew Complex CLR™ (PRC) underwent a plethora of studies, both on a cellular and in vivo level. PRC was shown to accelerate and, above all, improve and support the quality of epidermal renewal. A large in vivo study in fact showed that, through this action,
www.personalcaremagazine.com 28 1.5% CutiBiome CLRTM days
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■ Straphylococcus ■ Cutibacterium
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t =
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28 0.1% Piroctone Olamine
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PRC was able to improve the health of the skin microbiome. In this context, the ‘health of the skin
microbiome’ is defined as its ability to regain its original healthy composition after it was lost by being exposed to a stress. The skin and, therefore, its microbiome are constantly exposed to external stresses and, in their defence against these stresses, are in a constant process self-replenishment in order to maintain their core quality and composition. This was shown by the above-mentioned study. Another active ingredient from CLR,
CutiBiome CLR™ (CB Complex), was developed with a focus on acne and dandruff. CB Complex was shown to recalibrate the microbial composition of both acneic skin and dandruff scalp. In this context, it is important to mention that the activity of CB Complex on the skin and scalp microbiome is largely a result of its activity on the skin and scalp themselves. The in vivo study performed on dandruff scalp, with a focus on the scalp microbiome, is described below. A formulation with 1% CB Complex was
compared with an identical formulation with 0.1% Piroctone Olamine. Thirty-nine volunteers with a clinical score of dandruff of ≥2 and <5 were enrolled in the study. Nineteen volunteers used the formulation
containing Piroctone Olamine and 20 used the formulation containing CB Complex. Volunteers washed their hair with a neutral shampoo three times per week. Formulations with Piroctone Olamine and CB Complex, respectively, were massaged into the scalp after drying the hair. After four weeks, i.e. 12 applications of the formulations with Piroctone Olamine and CB Complex, results were obtained. Both Piroctone Olamine and CB Complex
strongly reduced the load ofMalassezia. The treatment with Piroctone Olamine, however, fully abolished the presence of M. globosa.
The treatment with CB Complex led to a strong reduction of M. restricta, and M. globosa survived the treatment. The abundance ofM. globosa in relation to M. restricta was clearly increased. This is important in regaining a healthy fungal composition of the scalp (Figure 1). The treatment with Piroctone Olamine
leads to a rather strong increase of the abundance of Staphylococcus in relation to Cutibacterium. Contrary to the effect of Piroctone Olamine, the treatment with CB Complex allows for growth of Cutibacterium and much less so for Staphyloccus. The result of this effect is that the
abundance of Staphyloccocus, relative to Cutibacterium, is decreased. CB Complex thus also helps in the recovery of a normal, healthy bacterial composition of the scalp. Piroctone Olamine supports neither the recovery of a healthy fungal nor healthy bacterial composition (Figure 2).
Conclusion The cosmetic and personal care industry might indeed have reached a cul-de-sac with the skin microbiome. Our lack of understanding of the skin microbiome–to-skin relationship has put us in a position where the most we can claim about a product is that it is ‘microbiome- friendly.’ This article argues that it is time to refocus and turn our attention to the skin-to- skin microbiome relationship. Healthy skin has a healthy microbiome. This is a notion average consumers understand and appreciate. By promoting skin health, i.e. epidermis and follicle, we can indeed see that we promote a healthy composition of the skin microbiome. ProRenew Complex and CB Complex have
both shown that this approach works. The skin microbiome is significant for the consumer, we just need to understand precisely how.
PC September 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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