38 SKIN MICROBIOME
Flash disturbance
Measured at 5 hours after product application
Cumulative disturbance twice-day product application Figure 1: A dermatologically approved methodology for determining a scale of microbiome disturbance
molecular profiling to study bacteria on the skin and how cosmetics affect these bacteria, most of these studies are costly and take time. There was a need for a quicker method to evaluate the direct impact of a wider range of individual ingredients and determine how they affect the viability of the skin’s bacteria in the short term. In an attempt to harmonise these standards
and create a more rapid, viable and customer- friendly system, Givaudan subsequently created a methodology to measure the impact of topical applications on cutaneous bacterial density, i.e. the number of bacteria cultivable in a defined medium per unit of skin surface area in a specific zone. The result was the B-Biome Score, Givaudan’s proprietary Active Beauty Certification, dermatologically approved and scientifically peer reviewed.
Evaluating microbiota for optimum skin health and human wellness The essential role of indigenous microbiota in maintaining human health and wellbeing has been extensively and scientifically proven, with the undisputed notion that healthy live bacteria are important for maintaining the equilibrium of the skin’s ecosystem, and for globally maintaining human health and wellbeing. Hence, a reliable, industry-wide scoring
system for microbiome data was needed due to the importance of the skin microbiome and its role in skin health. Indeed, the significance of live skin bacteria cannot be understated: each live skin bacteria acts as an energy transformer, drawing on molecules from its surrounding environment to generate energy in various forms. Healthy skin bacteria, as expressed in
a stable skin microbiota, contribute to skin health by training the immune system, maintaining homeostasis in the skin barrier and producing essential vitamins for the human body. When developing skincare in the form of cosmetics and beauty products, it is therefore essential to determine whether an ingredient will preserve or destroy these precious live bacteria. This standpoint informed Givaudan’s interest in developing a robust, reliable scoring system.
Givaudan’s criteria for in vivo studies of microbiome health Givaudan’s B-Biome Score is the first transparent, microbiome-friendly label. It is
PERSONAL CARE September 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
focused on the impact of active ingredients on the viability of the skin microbiota. Givaudan employed volunteers in a clinical trial who were monitored during an in vivo longitudinal evaluation of the skin’s bacterial density, where repeated topical applications of two reference compounds were assessed.
Study Design Four iterative studies were undertaken from March 2021 to February 2022 at the Givaudan Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence (Toulouse, France), with two external validation studies. A total of 12 healthy volunteers, men and women, ranging in age from 19 to 62 years, were recruited for the in-house studies. A subset of these volunteers participated in
several of the reported studies. In subsequent fifth and sixth studies, two groups of 12 healthy volunteers, men and women, ranging in age from 35 to 65 years, were recruited in July and December 2022. Skin swabs were collected at specific
time intervals over a period of seven days, and bacterial density was determined using a traditional colony-counting method. The microbiota area of the neck was chosen for the trials as the microbiome composition of the neck is similar to that of the face. Globally, the neck is less impacted by cosmetics use, is substantially less exposed to confounding factors (e.g. UV exposure, skin care creams,
make- up, uncontrolled hand touches) and is not affected by mask wearing. For men, sampling from the neck area, which
is below the beard, also facilitates swabbing for male volunteers. Consequently, the neck is an area of the skin that provides useful evaluative data for both face care and body care. The microbiota area of the neck was chosen
for the trials, as the microbiome composition of the neck is similar to that of the face: globally, it is less impacted by cosmetics use, is not affected by mask wearing and it is an area of the skin that provides useful evaluative data for both face care and body care.
Comparative evaluation of physiological saline and chlorhexidine To determine the ’friendliness’ of potential microbiome ingredients, benchmark tests using two compounds were trialed on volunteers. A neutral compound that respects live bacteria was used, in the form of physiological saline. This was contrasted with chlorhexidine, a broad-spectrum antibiotic which kills bacteria and has a mildly disturbing effect on the skin. The solution – physiological saline or
chlorhexidine - was applied by gently dabbing a saturated gauze on a 50 cm2 delimited area of skin on the neck, with pressure but without rubbing, for 15–20 seconds. After application, the skin was allowed to air-dry. As a marker,
Measured at 3 days after
Resilience
Measured at 4 days after the last application
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105
